Engine Power loss under load/accelerating
Alright, I'll check fuel pressure but it'll e awhile before I can do the plenum. It does not stop when I shut it off. It normally will just continue upon restarting. And another part is if you're idleing at a stop light and shift it into neutral it will rev up to about 1000 Rpm then go back down to its 400 Rpm chug.
Hmmm.... as another thought.... grab yourself an analog multimeter. (the one with a needle, that sweeps a scale.) Test output voltage on the tps. (engine doesn't even need to be running. just the key on.) It should go from a little less than one volt, to greater than 3.5 volts, in a smooth sweep. If it bounces around, or has dead spots. Replace it.
Will I be able to test it with my digital multimeter, or will it nt show quick enough? And where do I touch tea leads to?
That could explain that problem, but what is that awful sound I end up hearing when the rpms drop an I keep try gassing it? The sound of hitting your knuckles on your sheet metal coming down from the pipes or engine, I really can't tell. Is that a backfire?
That could explain that problem, but what is that awful sound I end up hearing when the rpms drop an I keep try gassing it? The sound of hitting your knuckles on your sheet metal coming down from the pipes or engine, I really can't tell. Is that a backfire?
Digital doesn't react fast enough. Analog meter is the hot ticket. I think the center wire is the signal wire. Just read that, and have the other probe going to ground.
Yeah, it is probably backfiring.....
Yeah, it is probably backfiring.....
Should start low at closed throttle, and sweep smoothly up the scale as you slowly open the throttle. Less than one volt at idle, greater than 3.5 at WOT. If it is out of spec at either end, or, the sweep isn't perfectly smooth, replace it.
I just went ahead and replaced the TPS. Nothing changed. Borrowed fuel pressure reader from AutoZone and it read a constant 46 psi. Keeping it in my truck to check pressure once the chug starts.







