2wd 1500 eating front wheel bearings like mad
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
The 01 manual won't work in this particular instance. Along about 2000 model year, the 2wd trucks changed from bearings with races pressed into the rotor, to the unit bearing. I think that is why he keeps blowing up bearings.
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
From 96 manual
INSTALLATION'
(1) Install the new bearing cup(s) with an appropriate
installation tool.
(2) Apply a coating of MOPAR Wheel Bearing
Grease or equivalent lubricant to inner surface area
of hub/rotor. Install inner wheel bearing and seal in
the hub/rotor.
(3) Inspect bearing and seal contact surfaces on
spindle for burrs and/or roughness.
(4) Remove all rough contact surfaces from spindle.
Apply a coating of lubricant.
CAUTION: Use care to prevent inner wheel bearing
and seal from contacting spindle threads during
installation.
(5) Carefully slide the hub/rotor onto spindle. Install
outer wheel bearing, washer and retaining nut.
(6) Tighten the nut'to 41-54 N-m (30-40 ft. lbs.)
torque to preload bearing while rotating the hub/rotor.
Stop hub/rotor and loosen nut to completely release
bearing preload torque. Tighten the nut finger-tight and
install the nut lock. Install a new cotter pin.
(7) The adjustment (above) should have 0.001 to
0.003 inch (0.254 to 0.0762 mm) end play.
(8) Clean the dust cap and apply a coating lubricant
to the internal surface. Do not f i l l the dust
cap with lubricant. Install the cap.
(9) Install disc brake caliper, refer to Group 5
Brakes.
(10) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
guess they changed from the spindle to a unit bearing on the ifs at some point
when I did my grandpas nissan frontier rotors had to remove the wheel bearing. He was real clear about only finger tight. I listened to him because an 80 year old man has been around the block a couple more times then me. Even though it felt weird.
INSTALLATION'
(1) Install the new bearing cup(s) with an appropriate
installation tool.
(2) Apply a coating of MOPAR Wheel Bearing
Grease or equivalent lubricant to inner surface area
of hub/rotor. Install inner wheel bearing and seal in
the hub/rotor.
(3) Inspect bearing and seal contact surfaces on
spindle for burrs and/or roughness.
(4) Remove all rough contact surfaces from spindle.
Apply a coating of lubricant.
CAUTION: Use care to prevent inner wheel bearing
and seal from contacting spindle threads during
installation.
(5) Carefully slide the hub/rotor onto spindle. Install
outer wheel bearing, washer and retaining nut.
(6) Tighten the nut'to 41-54 N-m (30-40 ft. lbs.)
torque to preload bearing while rotating the hub/rotor.
Stop hub/rotor and loosen nut to completely release
bearing preload torque. Tighten the nut finger-tight and
install the nut lock. Install a new cotter pin.
(7) The adjustment (above) should have 0.001 to
0.003 inch (0.254 to 0.0762 mm) end play.
(8) Clean the dust cap and apply a coating lubricant
to the internal surface. Do not f i l l the dust
cap with lubricant. Install the cap.
(9) Install disc brake caliper, refer to Group 5
Brakes.
(10) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
guess they changed from the spindle to a unit bearing on the ifs at some point
when I did my grandpas nissan frontier rotors had to remove the wheel bearing. He was real clear about only finger tight. I listened to him because an 80 year old man has been around the block a couple more times then me. Even though it felt weird.
This.
yea i thought about it and it makes sense now, whole point of a bearing is for smooth functionality, cant be smooth its torqued so much the shaft cant even move. I had just finished installig the unit bearings on my dana 60 and was just thinking more torque.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 148
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From:
Thanks guys. Heading out now to make a fresh attempt at removing the damned rotor so I can replace the blown bearing. Hopefully I can get the damn thing off today or tightening the nut for the new one is kind of a moot point.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Dec 2007
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From:
Ok. So after hours of fruitless effort trying to get the damn rotor off I gave up and went to the salvage yard for a new knuckle. Knocked the old knuckle off, threw on the new one with a new rotor, new inner and outer Timken bearings and seal and slapped it all back together. This time I only snugged the spindle nut down by hand and didn't torque the crap out of it. Hopefully that's the end of it.
Yes, that should solve your issues. 
All Star
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 797
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From: fargo, n.d
A new guy at a shop I've used in the past did that on my old 99 2wd, same set up as your 98. Overtorqued! Almost lost drivers side wheel going 80mph down the interstate with no warning, 5 days later the other side went out. They warranteed that one but not the other, even though they almost killed me or someone else.
Last edited by ReadRam; Mar 19, 2014 at 11:16 PM. Reason: none
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
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the problem im having is that once i torque the nut to 185lbs the hub will not spin. the truck is a 2001 1500 2 wheel drive and the hub has the sealed bearings it it already. ive never seen anything like this so any help would be great.
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
185/ft-lbs is the spec for 4wd trucks. The 2wd trucks just need to be snugged. Download the FSM from this site for the exact specs.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,479
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
For the unit bearing trucks, 2000 and up.... 185 ft/lbs is correct, 4wd are over 200 ft/lbs.