Ok, so I know there has been a lot of engine build questions on here, but each is different in their own way. I plan on rebuilding a 360 from an 01 dodge ram and putting it in my 98 with a 318 over the summer. Itll take awhile, but I want to get whatever parts I want written down so I don't end up forgetting something. These are the parts and places I have found so far:
Master Rebuild Kit DNJ EK1141M ($502) RockAuto
Odessa IronRam Heads ($440/each) Ebay
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Set C3028x ($42.99) RockAuto
Comp Cams CCA-20-602-9 ($333) Summit
HS 1.7s CSP-57307 ($300) Summit
BBK 52mm Throttle Body BB-1722 (329.99)


And Hemifever Stage 1 Tuner $500


Can anyone offer input as to whether everything should work together correctly or any advice on whether those are good parts? Anything I am forgetting? Any tips I need to know? I am also looking for The M1 intake manifold as well, but I cant determine where to get it and which one to get. Chrysler parts direct was mentioned, but I couldn't figure out which one I needed. I would like to get a 408 bottom end kit as well, but I really feel like money isn't going to allow it.
This is a build I am planning for the summer, as I also need to swap a transmission first and as money allows. Thanks for any advice, as I could use as much help as I can get

 

Why not go with a slightly meaner cam, and 1.6 rockers? You accomplish the same thing, and reduce a wee bit of stress on the valve train.

Are those the 2.02 heads? (intake valve size.) If so, you might wanna consider headers in that build as well. Possibly a better intake, if you budget supports it.

 

M-1 Intake Manifold


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dc...iew/make/dodge


Install Kit


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dc...iew/make/dodge


Now I have seen the on other web sites for less than this. You'll need to search around and see if you can find better prices.
As far as your Odessa cyl heads you can buy them as a pair for less I think. I would suggest that you look at if you want the larger valves or not. If you go with them then at HeyYou suggested you'll want to get an intake and headers to support the larger valves.
And as HeyYou suggested I would look at little more aggressive cam and just get regular ratio roller rockers. Also make sure you decide which cam you're going to go with BEFORE you order your heads because you can have Odessa install better valve springs for a higher lift cam if needed.

 

HeyYou, those are the Iron Ram heads I looked at and they do have the 2.02 intake and 1.625 exhaust. The engine hasn't been pulled from the truck yet, but it already has long tube headers and a k&n CAI on it. What size would you go? The only other one that is bigger by Comp from summit racing is Duration 264/274, Lift .512/.512. The heads say they are good up to .515 lift, so would being that close be alright? Would I have to get different length pushrods or modify anything of the sort? If not, then that would save me $300 on rocker arms.
Wildman, I looked for a set of heads and I didn't see them. All I saw was one. Ill have to look around and Im sure Odessa would hook me up if I call them, but I planned on doing this over the summer and that means I don't quite have the money yet. I just wanted to get a parts list together so im not bumbling around when the time comes

 

I know they sell the new, stock replacements in pairs, don't recall seeing the iron rams in pairs though..... might wanna call 'em and see.

would that be the CCA-20-604-9 cam? Actually, that one looks pretty tasty..... should work fine with stock pushrods/rockers.... but, I would be tempted to go with better pushrods in any event. Might talk to odessa as well, and have them put the .520 valve springs in there, just to be safe. Doubt it would cost much more.

You already have budgeted for the custom tune..... keep in mind though, that Sean will more'n likely want run logs, with a wideband O2 as well, to get your tune properly dialed in.

Roller rockers would free up a bit of power as well..... I like them better than the stamped steel fellers the factory put on there..

 

So is it worth it to get the aftermarket 1.6s? They are even more expensive than the 1.7s. Im under the impression that they are pedestal mount according to http://www.magnumswap.com/performance-modifications/. I guess that could be done in the future though. But if any gains, I would imagine they would be very small. You also mentioned pushrods. Same length just different material? Im not planning on racing, the only high RPMs I would get into would be mud or if im one of them moods...
As for run logs, does that mean I need a wideband O2 and an gauge for it as well? Will I have to do anything else computer-wise?
Also any preferred brand names would be appreciated.

 

I seem to remember seeing a chevy rocker conversion at one point. Has the advantage that chevy roller rockers are cheap, and plentiful..... Don't remember where though.... (and you also get adjustable rockers to boot.)

Yeah, hardened pushrods. Just for grins.

Gauge wouldn't be required, but, for your own information..... nice to have. I *think* the tuner hemifever sells does data logging, don't recall if it has an aux input for the additional sensor though.

 

I used Chevy Roller Rockers on my build. They are the same size as Mopar RR's but you have to do the stud and guide plate conversion too.


If you look on Ebay they will have the heads in pairs or at least they did because that is how I bought mine.

 

If I'm reading this correctly, you're saying that a bigger cam with lower-ratio rockers will induce less stress on the valve train?

I'm not trying to argue or say that you're wrong; I've just never heard that before.

 

Rocker arms are simply a lever. The ratio is how much one end moves, in relation to the other. Higher ratio means the valve spring ALSO has a longer lever to counteract movement. So, running the lower ratio requires less pressure on the pushrod side to open the valve. Simple physics.