Oh yea. One more thing. My scanner is unable to clear the p0132 code that came up after disconnecting o2. Maybe the PCM is bad.....

 

PCM "learns" the IAC. If you change it, pull it out, or anything else of the nature, you need to reset the PCM, so it can re-learn where IAC is at zero. (same for TPS) It may not actually reflect 0 in the data.... but, the PCM always has a bit of built in fudge-factor.

I would try: Disconnect battery, let it sit for ten minutes. Reconnect battery. Turn ignition key to On, don't touch anything, count to ten. Start engine. See what it does.

 

OK, tried exactly what you said. It started nice and idled around 700. Drove it about 2 miles and by the time I came back idle was back up. Put it in park and was running about 1700......

 

Either a vacuum leak, or bad IAC.

 

This thread might help me with my problem. Like you mine has the long crank (fuel pump issue) however today i got the 1-200 rpm surge on the freeway. I had the high idle as well and cleaning the IAC helped but now I'm thinking i might have a vacuum problem or bad IAC. Would loose cruise control during surges. Is cruise vacuum driven on these? Gonna pull front o2 tomorrow to see if that does anything.

 

Cruise is electrically controlled by the PCM, and uses vacuum to modulate the throttle.

The surge on the freeway is likely a bad throttle position sensor.

I don't think the two are related though, I do believe you have more than one problem going on there. Deal with 'em one at a time.

 

Thanks, Cruise is not a big deal and i will work on them one at a time. It wanted to die at idle in park or drive... Still TPS you think?

Should i try the o2 or go straight for TPS replacement?

 

Sorry op if I'm jacking your thread, let me know if you want me to post else where. I figure since they are the same problem why not keep all the info here in one thread for future readers.

So I tested TPS and first verified my base line 5vdc reading was correct and it was. Then tested its function and got a reading of 3.9-4 vdc. So that should be considered functional correct? Or could tps still be bad possibly?

 

Should be less than one volt at closed throttle, and over 3.5 volts at wide open, with a nice, SMOOTH transition. Best to use an analog meter for testing, as digital meters simply don't react fast enough.

If that reading was at idle, the TPS is toast.

 

The test was not running but with ignition on. Read less than 1vdc and at full gas read 3.9vdc. However a tech at my work said that a meter won't detect a short or malfunction properly? So I don't know. Will most likely just start replacing sensors for good measure.