Might be able to yank one of a donor cluster, and install it in yours...... that would keep your odometer accurate.

 

<p>&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</p>
<p>&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</p>
<p>&lt;p&gt;I didn't stop to think about the odometer. Since the Plexiglas isn't in the best of shape,and I don't have a tachometer, I may have to unsolder some components to customize my dashboard cluster, while keeping the odometer intact at 79,000. Fortunately, my state has an odometer statement exemption for vehicles 10 years or older.&lt;/p&gt;</p>
<p>&lt;p&gt;Maybe I can get used to,and prepared to removing and replacing components at board level and film my first ever YouTube/DF DIY video. I'm looking forward to tearing into my dashboard in hopes off getting this problem solved and moving onto another ablj;</p>

 

I really butcher some "Quotes" and posts when using my phone to post here. sorry moderators.

 

Update on Speedometer not working.
Thanks to a generous member (Franky) who donated me a used instrument cluster I was able to make some headway.
My original cluster does not have a tachometer, and the donor cluster does. And the fuel, oil pressure, voltage, and temperature gauges are in different places.
I reset the donors mileage manually and placed it in my truck today.

Everything works great except the tachometer does not work. Speedometer does fine as well as the gauges, but sadly, no tachometer.
On the donor cluster, there is a 3rd small black connector which I do not have a pigtail for, if it was ever used at all. All the documents Ive read say that there are only two connectors.

I am extremely happy that I have a working speedometer and the fuel gauge seems to work better than my original one.
So unless someone can speculate as to why the tach. doesn't work, I am going to button her back up and be happy that I have a working speedo and leave it at that.
I might mention that my OBDII device has a tachometer in the list of sensors and on the "dashboard" that shows RPM correctly so I know that the VSS is sending the correct information.
Thanks Franky for the nice donation. I really appreciate the help my friend.!!!

P.S. I plan on a short DIY on replacing the whole cluster or individual parts. It's pretty simple. There are a few "serious do not do what I did" items I plan on pointing out. The hard part is putting everything back together.

 

Tach signal comes in on connector 215, pin 3, Gray with light blue trace. Comes from PCM. Grounds thru the common I/C ground. (that part of the circuit seems to be fine, as other stuff works.) Before you button it all up, check and see if you actually have a wire there. (should.....)

 

Not sure which connector is which, but I'll look at pin 3 on both.

 

On the tach. side connector, in what I would take to be pin 3 there is a gray with light blue trace wire plugged and looking ready.
The backs of the two boards look entirely different. I wonder if the tach isn't a function set up within the PCM.

 

Check the other end as well. Connector 137 at PCM (grey) pin 31. Check and see if you are getting any kind of voltage there. (at cluster connector.)

 

I'm confused here. You say check connector 137 @PCM pin 31 (at cluster connector).
Is that a typo or do you mean (at PCM connector) ? Or do I need to wake up and go to sleep?

 

I am being purposefully confusing.

PCM is grey connector (137) wire should be in pin 31. Make sure it is, and gets a good connection.

Check for voltage at the cluster connector. (think we already covered which one it is.) Everything needs to be hooked up for that, engine running.