Replacing a 5.2
#11
05-22-2014, 10:35 PM
Champion
With you doing the work yourself, you'd have to find an engine via craigslist. Looking online, there are 5.9 engines with 125,000 miles for $425 (in my area). You can for sure put a 5.9 in place a a 5.2, it's the same engine block and everything, just a bigger bore and bigger stroke, externally, they are the same. Before you put the motor in, you'll want to fix the plenum and I'd recommend that you do a double roller timing set and a water pump. You're probably looking at $250-$300 depending on where you shop (that's with an aluminum plate to fix the plenum). You'll also want new distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Time wise, you can get the motor out in a day (it's electrical connections, the exhaust, fan/shroud, drain fluids, 2 motor mount bolts, 6 holding the engine to the tranny, 2 engine to tranny struts, remove the starter, flexplate cover, 4 torque converter bolts, and be sure to remove the crankshaft position sensor. You can probably get it out in a day. Fix the new motor another day (or before you even pull yours, so it's ready), and drop the new motor in a day or a little more.
I bought a used 5.9 motor off craigslist for my truck, too. I freshened it up pretty much as described above. You will need an engine hoist and a place to do the work if you decide to tackle an engine swap yourself, but if you have some time, basic mechanical ability, a good assortment of metric and SAE hand tools and patience, I'm sure you will find swapping an engine rewarding. Besides, you can always use this forum for any assistance or help you may need to complete the swap.
#12
05-22-2014, 10:37 PM
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Location: fargo, n.d
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Front crank seal leak can spray oil all over the under carriage,also. I wouldn't condemn the motor if the only problem is a leak. Are there other problems besides mileage?
I recently priced a used 5.9 at a local salvage yard for 850.00 with 90,000 mi.
I recently priced a used 5.9 at a local salvage yard for 850.00 with 90,000 mi.
Last edited by ReadRam; 05-22-2014 at 10:43 PM.
#13
05-23-2014, 10:15 AM
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No, other then the high mileage and leak, there's not too many mechanical issues. I got a p4020 code, but thats either a bad cat or o2 sensor. Once I disconnect the battery, it never came back on n the trucks been better. I wish It had some more power, seems its ******* a lil when it comes to going uphill. It makes a sound when I go up long, steeper inclines. Sounds like theres a can of spraypaint being rattled.
#14
05-23-2014, 10:18 AM
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#15
05-23-2014, 11:34 AM
Professional
No, other then the high mileage and leak, there's not too many mechanical issues. I got a p4020 code, but thats either a bad cat or o2 sensor. Once I disconnect the battery, it never came back on n the trucks been better. I wish It had some more power, seems its ******* a lil when it comes to going uphill. It makes a sound when I go up long, steeper inclines. Sounds like theres a can of spraypaint being rattled.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm
Also, you didn't mention if you have replaced the plenum. That can cause all sorts of loss of power issues by plugging your CAT and fouling your upstream O2 sensor. Did you mean P0420 for your code? That would make sense. Check your plenum by removing the airhat, opening the butterfly in the throttle body and use a flashlight to look inside the intake manifold. If you see an oily residue or pooled oil your plenum is blown. This isn't a difficult repair either if you take a little time. Use the Hughes kit with the aluminum plate if it needs replacement.
For the rear main seal and oil pump and pan gasket use this link:
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html
That will give you the info so you know what you are getting into if you decide to do it yourself. Let us know what you find out...