I have a 99 Ram 1500 4x4, ext cab, 5.2. It has 213,000 miles n its starting to leak oil. Oil is all over the starter when I look underneath, and all over the oil pan. It seems like theres oil higher then the oil pan gasket, im not sure if it would spray out of a bad oil pan gasket or if its leaking higher do to a rear engine seal. The valve cover gaskets aren't leaking. With such high mileage, im contemplating whether I should just buy a lowet mileage motor n swap them out.. Any input regarding what I wrote to this point would be appreciated. But my two questions are this. One, how much would it cost to swap out a motor like this, reasonably, or how many hours labor should I expect to be charged. And second, if I was to replace the motor, is it possible to insert a 5.9 in place or the 5.2?

 

With you doing the work yourself, you'd have to find an engine via craigslist. Looking online, there are 5.9 engines with 125,000 miles for $425 (in my area). You can for sure put a 5.9 in place a a 5.2, it's the same engine block and everything, just a bigger bore and bigger stroke, externally, they are the same. Before you put the motor in, you'll want to fix the plenum and I'd recommend that you do a double roller timing set and a water pump. You're probably looking at $250-$300 depending on where you shop (that's with an aluminum plate to fix the plenum). You'll also want new distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Time wise, you can get the motor out in a day (it's electrical connections, the exhaust, fan/shroud, drain fluids, 2 motor mount bolts, 6 holding the engine to the tranny, 2 engine to tranny struts, remove the starter, flexplate cover, 4 torque converter bolts, and be sure to remove the crankshaft position sensor. You can probably get it out in a day. Fix the new motor another day (or before you even pull yours, so it's ready), and drop the new motor in a day or a little more.

 

Around 8 hours labor for shop time, at whatever the labor rate is in your area.

If you go with a 360, you MUST use the 360 flexplate. Also wouldn't hurt to have the PCM flashed for the 360 when you are done. Or, buy a tuner, that knows about the 360. (this is actually the better option, albeit, more expensive. Dealer will give you the death flash.)

 

Thats alot of good information right there. Thank you both. Is there a way to tell whether its the rear seal or opg in the existing motor?

 

Sounds like it is your rear main. I just did mine about two months ago on my 5.2. I had oil dripping at the inspection plate, oil sprayed all over inside and outside of the transmission bell housing and over the top of the transmission. On my Dakota it was a real bear to drop the oil pan as I had to remove the front differential and raise the motor about 6 inches to clear the pan over the steering linkage and motor mount brackets. Yours may be easier. I replaced the rear main seal, pan gasket and oil pump/pickup tube. My pan was really clean inside, no sludge at all! I have 155k on my motor and am expecting to easily double it with continued basic maintenance. Haven't had a drip since and great oil pressure. I wouldn't replace the motor unless the pan in yours is really sludged up and you are having oil pressure issues, just my two cents. You don't know anything about the background of a used motor and how it was ran versus your own. Only way to tell is to get that pan off and have a look and go from there.

Go to rockauto.com for all the parts to do the rear main and pan, pretty inexpensive parts wise and if you have some mechanical ability you can do this job yourself and really save some money!

 

I think I can do it, I just get nervous that im gonna run into something unforseen and need a specialty tool I dont have or need to press a part or weld. I like to think im pretty mechanically inclined, but my confidence level isnt so great..

 

For a straight up engine swap, the only special tool you need is the fuel line disconnect. You can pick up cheap ones for a few bucks. If you plan on using it more than a couple times, spring for the good one, about 14..... you need 3/8ths.

 

Oil could be leaking from the back of the valley, and tracking down the back of the block/bellhousing.

 

I would bet it's the rms. You can do it, read up a little bit. It cost me maybe $100 for everything on mine. A bit cheaper and easier than a new engine.

 

You might even be able to get by without the fuel line dis-connect. If your truck is like mine, you can use your fingers to dis-connect the clip that holds the fuel rail to the fuel line, and pull the clip out. After that, the fuel line comes right out.