Clear the codes, and see if it comes back. Your symptoms begin to sound a lot like a crank sensor going bad.

 

Nope. No codes come up. Just the usual 12-battery disconnect, 37-tcc solenoid which my truck isnt equipped. So ive been told.

 

I see the TCC and O/D codes once in a while as well. My truck has both. I think the computer just gets impatient if it doesn't see the RPM drop it expects RIGHT NOW! when it requests either.

 

Went ahead and bought crank sensor, coil pickup, coil, cap/rotor. Did some research and noticed the crank sensor is under the egr tube. I have have never changed the egr and have gotten a random egr code every couple months. Might just swap that too.

 

get a good carb cleaner and clean the passages for the egr while it's off (the piping and what not)

 

Alright... well I changed the crank sensor, cam pickup, cap n rotor. Now it just backfires, stumbles and wont start. Checked plug wires 3 times and they are all in the right positions. As far as I know everything is hooked back up correctly. This is getting frustrating.

 

Check the connector at the PCM for dirty/corroded contacts.

Did you have the battery disconnected while changing parts? If not, disconnect it, and let the truck sit for five minutes. if you did, try stepping lightly on the gas while cranking. See if it will start.

 

Ok. Took the crank sensor out and returned it. Went to carquest and picked up another on and fired right up. Drove about 15min. without issue. Took a trip to town and it stumbled once upon acceleration. Drove another 45 minutes without issue. Parked it and started it up after a cool down. Started acting up again, seemingly low idle, hesitation when applying throttle and rpm would drop to stall when released. Then it had the startup and die symptoms again. I can feather and pat the throttle to keep it running but it sounds rough. Let it cool for 30min and it fires right up. Checked all vacuum lines and replaced the iac. Tested map and tps, conclusion good. Fuel pressure good, vacuum holds at 20hg. Tested air temp sensor for ohm resistance across the two pins while warm and my meter showed none... could that be the issue? Also found a small metal pipe next to the trans fill tube down below the height of the mounting tab seems to lead nowhere. Ideas? And thanks again.

 

What brand Crank sensor?

Wonder if you have a PCM that has some bad solder joints, that break contact when it gets hot.....

Definitely a heat soak issue though. Only a guess, but, pretty much all that is left is cam position sensor (in the distributor) or the PCM. Can you 'borrow' a 'test' PCM from a junkyard, or some such?

 

PCM is still suspect but it actually threw a code -map sensor low/high. Swapped it out and so far no problems. Took the pcm harness off and checked for corrosion and opened the cover. It seems to be sealed with some sort of magical force field... or silicone. Harness looked good though. Seemed hesitant to accelerate after swapping the map sensor but I think it just had to learn it. I'll update with test drive tomorrow. Dont drink and drive kids