2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

HELP! 97 Ram 2500 Overheating/Coolant in Engine Compartment

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 07-07-2014 | 10:02 AM
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 82,840
Likes: 3,436
From: Clayton MI
Default

I haven't seen a flow control valve on any of the dodges I have worked on...... so, I think having the heat on or off just doesn't matter.
 
  #32  
Old 07-07-2014 | 07:03 PM
sixofnine's Avatar
sixofnine
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Default

Installed the new Radiator, lost quite a bit of tranny fluid so I topped that off (all fluids were surprisingly clean actually).


Burped system for at least 30 minutes (heat on full blast, vents and blower open) surprised at how many / quickly bubbles surfaced compared to the times before.


Went for test drive on surface streets, consistent temp gauge reading but hearing the gurgling sound at each acceleration, no loss of coolant.


Gonna burp some more then test drive again...
 
  #33  
Old 07-07-2014 | 08:31 PM
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 82,840
Likes: 3,436
From: Clayton MI
Default

Get yourself a 1/2" cork, and a couple good clamps. (vice grips with flat jaws work fine.)

Remove the drivers side hose at the steel pipe that goes into the water pump. Stuff the cork into the pipe to keep the coolant in there.

Clamp off the passenger side hose forward of the splice that should be about the middle of the valve cover. Disconnect hose at the splice.

Put both hoses up as high as you can get them, add water to the drivers side hose. (it's longer) Watch the other hose as you pour water in. You will more than likely see air bubbles coming out. I just dumped about three gallons of water thru it, it flushes some of the crap out of the system, and makes SURE the heater core is full.

Reconnect hoses, being VERY careful to lose as little fluid as possible. Top off cooling system, burp normally, then test for proper protection. Adjust as needed.

Another method is to install a 'flush T' in the drivers side heater hose, just as close to the heater core as you can get. Start the truck up, and open up the flush T a bit, and wait for it to quit making rude noises as the air is purged from the system. Tighten it back down, burp the rest of the system normally.

Either way, cooling system should now be full, and the gurgling should be gone.
 
  #34  
Old 07-08-2014 | 12:24 AM
sixofnine's Avatar
sixofnine
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Default

Originally Posted by HeyYou
Get yourself a 1/2" cork, and a couple good clamps. (vice grips with flat jaws work fine.)


Thanks...will try that out tomorrow morning!
 
  #35  
Old 07-08-2014 | 12:44 AM
archemedes74's Avatar
archemedes74
Veteran
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Mobile Alabama
Default

I like the flush t method myself
 
  #36  
Old 07-08-2014 | 09:38 AM
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 82,840
Likes: 3,436
From: Clayton MI
Default

Originally Posted by archemedes74
I like the flush t method myself
installation is a drag, simply because of where it is, but, it does make life a lot easier for future issues.
 
  #37  
Old 07-09-2014 | 02:56 PM
sixofnine's Avatar
sixofnine
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Default

So I never got around to doing the above procedure as the day got away from me but...
Drove home last night and back to my Mom's this morning and NO ISSUES! Can still hear the gurgling sound though, and since I went and purchased the cork and other supplies metioned, gonna go ahead and install the flush T and burp again this weekend! Again, thanks so much to HeyYou and to you too, archemedes74. Will keep you posted.
 
  #38  
Old 07-09-2014 | 03:36 PM
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 82,840
Likes: 3,436
From: Clayton MI
Default

The flush T is the easiest way, and obviates the need for the other stuff. I have one in the shop, just haven't installed it yet. (as I used the other method to get the air out of the core, and haven't had the cooling system open again since then. )
 
  #39  
Old 07-19-2014 | 02:51 PM
sixofnine's Avatar
sixofnine
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Default

Just wanted to check in...so far so good. Stll haven't installed the flush T yet (definitely gonna do it in the next few days...but, a few hundred miles with no issues, temp gauge never climbing above 198*, no fluctuations. Good heat, good air.
Thanks so much for all of the input/advice. You guys are AWESOME!!!
 



Quick Reply: HELP! 97 Ram 2500 Overheating/Coolant in Engine Compartment



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:16 PM.