Ball joints 01 4x4 offroad model
#1
Ball joints 01 4x4 offroad model
Hey,
I am getting ready to order all 4 ball joints and, hopefully, do this job myself since I don't have $1000+ to spare to have some shop do it, instead. I have searched the forums, btw. Just looking for experienced opinions.
I tend to get my parts from Rockauto. My questions are.....1) Does anyone have any experience with Raybestos balljoints vs. Moog? I'm planning on buying the Raybestos ones part #s Upper 5001058 Lower 5051289 I don't have the Moog #s.
2) Am I gonna run into any surprises unique to my truck? (truck info below)
Any advice or time-saving tricks appreciated. I'm no mechanic, but I don't mind working on stuff as long as I can get the right tools.
Truck info: 2001 Dodge Ram offroad version--pretty much stock right now, but plan on making some changes when time and money allow.
I am getting ready to order all 4 ball joints and, hopefully, do this job myself since I don't have $1000+ to spare to have some shop do it, instead. I have searched the forums, btw. Just looking for experienced opinions.
I tend to get my parts from Rockauto. My questions are.....1) Does anyone have any experience with Raybestos balljoints vs. Moog? I'm planning on buying the Raybestos ones part #s Upper 5001058 Lower 5051289 I don't have the Moog #s.
2) Am I gonna run into any surprises unique to my truck? (truck info below)
Any advice or time-saving tricks appreciated. I'm no mechanic, but I don't mind working on stuff as long as I can get the right tools.
Truck info: 2001 Dodge Ram offroad version--pretty much stock right now, but plan on making some changes when time and money allow.
#3
If you go Moog, go with the problem solver series.....
I've found you can get the part # from the mfg's site (Moog in this case), and simply search RockAuto for the part numbers. Worked for me before. And don't forget to use an extra 5% off referral code...
That said, I haven't heard bad things from Raybestos either.
Either way, let us know how it goes. My truck was under warranty the first 4 yrs I owned it, so I got new driver's side balljoints installed under warranty. But, I'll be doing the passenger ones myself (wrnty expired!) when they go bad if I still have the truck. That warranty paid for itself 3-4x times over!
I've found you can get the part # from the mfg's site (Moog in this case), and simply search RockAuto for the part numbers. Worked for me before. And don't forget to use an extra 5% off referral code...
That said, I haven't heard bad things from Raybestos either.
Either way, let us know how it goes. My truck was under warranty the first 4 yrs I owned it, so I got new driver's side balljoints installed under warranty. But, I'll be doing the passenger ones myself (wrnty expired!) when they go bad if I still have the truck. That warranty paid for itself 3-4x times over!
#4
go moog or factory
I just wasted 200 bucks having a guy (try) to replace my uppers and lowers. got them from advanced and they didn't fit. then took it to a front end shop they tried nope they had to get the parts from there source moog brand went in a hour.
don't waist you money or time with junk parts in this case go oem or moog.
don't waist you money or time with junk parts in this case go oem or moog.
#5
Here is another option as I got these and installed Fall of 2011(?). I can check that if you want as I have a thread here about it. Anyways...still running combined with all the wheeling done with them.
http://quad4x4.com/Dodge1500Dana44fr...01.html#Joints
http://quad4x4.com/Dodge1500Dana44fr...01.html#Joints
#6
Thanks for the all the replies. Probably gonna buy the parts over the weekend and do the job over the July 4th weekend.
Ham- The moog joints are on there (Rockauto) I just didn't remember the part #s.
Bunker- I definitely don't buy junk parts. I learned my lesson with that a long time ago.
JSTMoto- I forgot about the referral codes. Thanks for the reminder.
Wh1t3NuKle- I followed the link and am interested. That whole balljoint set would save me about $50. I know the lowers aren't greasable, but hell, the originals lasted 100k. Do you happen to know where those ball joints come from? I haven't read through the whole site, yet, if it's all explained there.
Thanks again.
Ham- The moog joints are on there (Rockauto) I just didn't remember the part #s.
Bunker- I definitely don't buy junk parts. I learned my lesson with that a long time ago.
JSTMoto- I forgot about the referral codes. Thanks for the reminder.
Wh1t3NuKle- I followed the link and am interested. That whole balljoint set would save me about $50. I know the lowers aren't greasable, but hell, the originals lasted 100k. Do you happen to know where those ball joints come from? I haven't read through the whole site, yet, if it's all explained there.
Thanks again.
#7
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#8
It might not be a bad idea to have or know a friend that has a good mini torch. Mine were extramly rusted in. I had to use one when me and my father did the right upper and lower (heat the balljoint not the hub) until it was hot enough to use the impact gun and a joint press to press it out. Just Had it in the shop last weak to do the hub, u-joint, and driverside upper and lower. The mechanic thought it was funny I used a torch until he was forced to do so on my driver side joints as well.
Also when you remove the axle do it slowly and straight out, when re-instaling it be extra carefull. There is an axle shaft seal in there, if it's old it's not uncommon for it to break and leak gear oil after re-instalation.
Also when you remove the axle do it slowly and straight out, when re-instaling it be extra carefull. There is an axle shaft seal in there, if it's old it's not uncommon for it to break and leak gear oil after re-instalation.
#9
Thanks for the tips, Topkin. I've been spraying and tapping on them weekly. I have access to a torch, just hope I don't need it.
#10