I would get a real locker if possible.

 

A Tru Trac is a "REAL" locker. It is possibly the best limited slip on the market. And for the type of driving the OP said he will be doing it is a great choice for a real traction aiding device. I'm not a fan of any of the clutch style lockers as they are going to wear out at some point.

 

I didn't know if the tru Trac was considered a "real" locker since it does operate like a limited slip.

 

I've got a "real" Detroit Locker (Softlocker) in the back of my Jeep TJ. I love it off road, but on pavement it jerks the rear end when it engages and disengages around corners, and on icy roads might cause you to spin. I guess I could get used to it in the back of my truck if it were a daily driver, but unless you're doing hardcore off-roading, a truetrac will suit you just fine, and is more than adequate.

 

Thanks guys i have decided to get the Truetrac. Now i just need to find a shop that won't break the bank installing it. everywhere i call is about 800 in labor. But i know i am not comfortable doing a job like this, shimming and what not.

 

Ok you're correct it isn't a REAL locker but it is a REAL traction aiding devise which lockers are also considered.

One thing about having a Detroit locker in a truck is that the longer wheel base plus the added weight will make the jerking around corners and stuff a little easier and less noticeable than in your TJ. It will also handle a little better on pavement.
I ran a Detroit in the rear of my TJ also until I swapped axles and installed a D60 with an ARB. If I had built the axle instead of buying it already built I might have just gone with a Detroit. The major issue with a Detroit in the steering axle is that it won't unlock if you're on the gas in 4WD so you have to learn to feather the gas if you are trying to turn while in a spot that you need the locker to get you thru. All auto lockers have this problem which is why a lot of people put manual lockers in their front axles.

 

True; a Detroit Locker's bad traits would probably be less noticable in the back of a pickup truck vs. the back of a Jeep TJ. But I love the true trac in my truck (with no bad traits). The thing is unstoppable in the snow. And now I've got one up front in my truck too.

My son while in college drove a beater 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee (open diffs front and rear). We were living in Washington State, and it had snowed. For some reason I had moved my truck from the driveway and he had his Jeep backed into the driveway. The driveway sloped upward gradually to the street from the house. Anyways, since my truck had been parked in the driveway, the driveway was clean and DRY underneath from where the truck had been. But there was compacted snow off to the side on the driveway. So picture it; he's on the driveway facing uphill (very slight grade) with the driver's side tires on dry concrete, and the passenger side tires on compacted snow. When he was trying to leave the driveway, the tires on the snow were spinning, and the tires on the dry pavement just sat there. It was classic; that's what happens with an open diff - power goes to the side with the least traction. If he had had a true trac (or any kind of good LS to be honest) the power would have shifted to the tires with traction (the ones the dry concrete) and he would have been able to drive right out of there.

The true trac for the Chrysler 9.25 is a fairly new addition to their line-up (came out around 2005/2006 or so?). The Auburn LS had been out well before that, and that's what a lot of folks were running when they wanted to upgrade their rear diff to a LS. And I considered at one time getting an Auburn LS, but held off because it was a clutch type LS. But once they came out with the application for my 9.25 it was a no-brainer - I got the true trac. I'm not saying the Auburn LS is bad; I've got no experience with it.

 

Hey guys the TrueTrac is on its way but i'm wondering if i should try to install this myself. The shop i called told me something about shimming it and how its not just take the old one out and place the new one in. Is this true or are they just trying to sell me on a $900 labor job. To my understanding it is remove wheels, each axle side, two c lamps on the carrier, pull carrier out, put new carrier in, install clamps and axles. If there is shims that need placed and measured ill be taking it to a shop just to be certain. He warned me of shops charging less saying that they don't shim it which can cause premature wear. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks guys

 

You can DIY. Carrier bearing preload and backspacing is set with the side adjusters, no shims. Be sure to use new ring gear bolts with red locktite. You'll have to buy or make a tool for tightening the side adjusters.
It really isn't complicated, just do some research on the net to get it right before doing anything. There's plenty of info available. Save that $900 for other things.

 

Update: Just got the truck back from the shop, it runs great, smooth quiet, but best of all my mind is at ease. The guy said i was really lucky, there was only one clip left in the carrier the rest were gone and in the tubes. The bearings were not damaged and neither were the ring and pinion. almost every clip broke off and not one wrecked anything. Guess im luckier than i thought. Best part is i only wound up paying $244 for the TrueTrac through Jegs(it was$490 but i had $200 gift cards) and labor was $950 but im rebuilding his Harley's Top end so we just did Labor for Labor. So i only had to drop $244. now i get to spend that money i saved on something else for the truck.........