I think the terminology is wrong here...You don't need "custom", you need "correct".

My Dakota has a .640 lift solid roller cam with MRL solid roller lifters, even with that set up I just measured and ordered PRs closest to the correct length, you can usually find PRs that are within .050, maybe closer.
I was equally worried about the wall thickness (went with .120) my valve springs are 250 lbs on the seat, 650 open.


Hell I just read your spec sheet, you're in good hands...Mike really knows his ****!!! I got my solid roller lifters from him. Small World.

 

Appreciate the offer Wildman, but I'm going to go ahead and purchase one. Can you or Adobe recommend a valve spring compressor? I'll need one of those also. I need to use a weaker spring. Don't want to bend the checker pushrod. Springs are the heavy duty springs spec'd for the cam lift.

 

You won't bend the valve spring checker...Mine didn't with springs that are 650 lbs open, I'll bet yours are a little more than half that.

 

Good to know. Everything I've seen on the web up to this point indicated that putting on lighter springs was required.

Thanks for the info!

 

Don't think you are actually going to open valves with the length checker......

 

Do I need to use a solid lifter for this procedure? I checked Hughes and they have an adjustable solid lifter for this procedure that costs 50$ refunded if you by pushrods from them, but their pushrods are pricey.

Ken

 

Not sure. I never used one, as I didn't get that fancy with valvetrains.

The end goal though, is to have the pattern of the rocker centered on the end of the valve stem. Too long/short of a pushrod, and you run the risk of having the rocker run right off the end of the valve. Bad things happen in that event.

I would guess that there are videos on youtube for properly setting up the valvetrain.

 

You dont want the lifter to collapse because that will Give you a bad reading. That's what the weaker valve springs are supposed to do. So you can check the whole rotation without collapsing your lifter.

 

You use a solid lifter to degree a cam if you take the dial gauge reading off the push rod cup in the lifter and not the lifter body. You guys are confusing degreeing in a cam with measuring for push rods

Mark the top of your valve stem with a sharpie, drop the adj push rod in (start with the stock length) adjust your lash as you normally do, rotate the engine by hand a few revolutions, pull the rocker and look at the top of the valve stem, the mark left from the rocker roller wheel should be centered on the valve stem. Check exhaust and intake valves.


Rinse / repeat until you get it right, pull the pushrod, measure it and order push rods CLOSEST to the right length.


http://www.dakotart.com/HowTo/ValveTrainGeometry.pdf

 

Of course you do...