Did your horn stop working?

Welcome to DF!

 

Thanks You. You are a Dodge Ram Whisperer.

Been a good day. Learned what that box of relays in the glovebox is and why they are there, and get to go fishing tomorrow.


Thanks again!

 

Would hate for you to miss your fishing trip.

 

Update:

After twenty or so starts since installing a new relay...wait a second... I switched the horn relay to the starter solenoid relay then installed a new relay into the horn slot, the truck exhibited the the same symptom as Friday morning - minus the aircon being on. Essentially upon turning key in ignition the dash lights faded and no start with zero engine crank.

I think the "fading dash lights" is actually the relay frying. I checked the relay and it's burned through. Installed a new relay and the truck fires up.

A couple possible causes - (truck has 126,000 mi)

Old relays
Starter solenoid surging/time to replace starter

Any other ideas?

Thanks

 

got a multi meter?

top post of starter should have 14ish volts all the time.

bottom little bolt and stud that has the rubber covering should only have power when key is turned all the way over trying to start.

 

No multimeter. But may need to get one to solve the puzzle. A couple questions: if the top post reads near or over what voltage is indicative of solenoid failure? Any reading plus or minus 14v, is there an acceptable range?
What voltage should the stud read when key is turned all the way in ignition position, is there a acceptable range?

Update 2

Fried 2 other relays in a row. I then went to parts store and bought new Bussman relays. The ones in glovebox are very old.

Even though all ground connections from battery visually looked solid I removed, wire brushed then cleaned with baking soda solution, dried both wire and surface, reinstalled. Locations I cleaned were battery post, body @ top of fender, frame @ near bottom of radiator and block @ near water pump. Any others that should be checked?

I then installed new 20 amp Bussman relay. Turned key to power position. Waited for all dash lights to cycle. Turned key to ignition. Success. So far so good. It now has about ten starts and am able to turn key immediately to ignition position with success.

Other than testing starter while still installed in motor with multimeter are there any other ideas?

Thanks

 

The top post should say whatever the voltage on your battery is reading.

It should transfer over to the solenoid. When starting.

Open your fuse box up and check the wires In there coming from the battery and then goin down to the starter.

Normally if a solenoid is bad it will "stick" or just not engage.

 

If he is burning through Relay after relay would that not mean he is getting too much voltage to that relay causing it to fail just like a fuse would "pop"? Possibly a short somewhere?

 

Would need to open up the relay, and see which side of the circuit is failing. Solenoid side, or switched side.

 

Good call.

The only connection that had not been cleaned is the positive battery cable at top of starter. There is an old oil leak down there and the starter is caked up with road grime and oil. Was anyways. Note to self: pull the starter to deal with battery cable at starter. What a bear.

After cleaning battery cable at starter the relays have stopped frying.

Fingers crossed this is puzzle solved.

Much thanks Ham Bone!!