Hi new on here, have had a 99 Dodge Ram 4x4 ext. Cab short bed 360 black, 02 Dodge Ram 6cyl. Didn't have long, an currently a 94 Dodge ram 4x4 reg cab short bed 318. Lifted by previous owner with blocks in back about 6 inches. On 34-35 in Mud Claws. bunch of crappy wiring for speakers and stuff that I cut and capped when I got it a year ago. My heater and windows were hardwired at some point, prob due to the heater or windows stopped working, I'm in Maine so it gets very cold obviously. They would always work with truck off. From time to time heater would kick off and a bunch of odd lights on cluster come on, ABS, brake light and airbag light. I always just wiggled the hardwire at the battery terminals and it would be fine ( power wire is fused at the battery). I replaced all the contacts at the terminals and it was great for six months. Now the lights came on as heater kicked out and now I can't get it back at all. I also can't find where the positive wire from the battery to the blower and windows splices in inside the firewall as when I looked at it the other day I was just hanging in the firewall ( it has a female/splice connector on its end). Since its hardwired I thought it wasn't the ignition switch and I have triple checked all fuses. Please help. This is a pain in the ***. The truck is just a winter beater and is nothing fancy, I know it's not all correct, the lift from what I was told is 2500 springs, new torsion bars in front and blocks in rear. Has aftermarket exhaust. Tried to put a picture of it in avatar but not sure if it worked. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks soo much in advance.

 

Shouldn't be any torsion bars..... 2500 springs will get you 2-3 inches of lift up front... if the OO (original owner) put six inch blocks out back, I would suspect the front got more than just springs. But, that's beside the point.

Given that your wiring is not stock...... gonna be fun trying to puzzle that one out. I would be real curious what the original motivation was to do so in the first place.....

Is the splice you are looking for the stock one? Or the new one that the OO put in? If stock, you can grab the 95 service manual from here, (it will be the same for your 94) if not.... well, gonna be hard to help you with that one, without being able to lay hands on the truck.

Welcome to DF!

 

Thanks for the feedback. You are right about the lift. It's something I'm not as interested in as I was when I was younger. It would be very good to know what is in it for the sake of any future repairs. And yah I should take a picture of the mess of wiring this kid some how used to power speakers, stereo, and CB radio. It's ridiculous at best. Anyhow to the situation at hand. I decided to change the ignition switch tonight with a brand new one. hoped that whatever reason the previous owner had done their hard wiring to the heater and windows would be corrected. These where the results. Sure enough, the "tamper proof" hex screws that hold the ignition switch to the column were 80% stripped out then the repair was abandoned by the looks of things, choosing to hardwire the heater ect,. I changed it after getting the roughly t-20 hex heads out. Truck fired up and seems to run and even shift a bit smoother and at lower rpm. The dash lights all turned off immediately (abs, brake, and airbag), no more odd dummy lights. The power windows work, and properly, they no longer go up and down with the truck off and key out of ignition. BUT the heater still won't kick on at all. I checked fuses also. Any input would be appreciated, it's getting colder everyday up here in Maine. ( I did manually open the blend door on heat and dash/floor to at least de-fog the window and stay warmer.).

 

Does it not blow heat? Or does it not blow at all??

 

Before I changed the ignition switch, the hardwired heater still worked on all settings, so it must not be the resistor or blower. Maybe the large metal fuse in driverside fuse box? Changed both the 30 amp buss fuses in cab panel for the blower motor and power windows tonight. Still no blower motor at all. ...

 

Check and see if you are getting power TO the blower motor. Switch controls the ground path.

 

Hey thanks for the input. Checked for power at blower and I get 15-16 volts. I also noticed my alternator is charging high, around 15-16 (probably closer to 16) volts rather than dead center on the gauge (14 volts). So if I'm getting power to blower it's either the switch or resistor, but before I lost my p windows and heater motor all settings on heater selector worked fine. There was corrosion on the connection to the resistor, haven't taken the resistor out yet but will in a bit. If it's the switch can I get it to just run on high somehow till I can get a new switch panel? Thanks again guys.

 

Yep, just ground the wire coming from the blower motor, that goes to the resistor block.

Keep in mind, the voltage regulator is in the PCM, so, if that has taken a dump, time for a new PCM.

 

Ok thanks again. I will ground the black wire from the blower motor. I would guess that will give me heat wide open whenever the truck is on with no way to shut it off unless I wire in a toggle switch, correct? Again I appreciate all the info. You have been very helpful, thanks.

 

Yep, just wire it temporarily to a toggle switch or some such.

Happy to be of service.