I've been running like that now for several years. When I changed spark plugs, I also installed a new set of Taylor plug wires, distributor cap and rotor (with brass inserts) and never looked back. I use a touch of dielectric grease inside the plug boot to make them easier to remove later on, but no issues with removing the heat shields whatsoever.

 

Some might be an echo of what others have stated, but here's my list of tips:

• Use regular Copper core plugs. Champion 436s (RC12LC4s) are what I use and are Original Equipment. Inspect them all closely for chips or cracks in the ceramic before installation (actually, do this in the parking lot before leaving the parts store)
• Give the boots a little bit of a twist back and forth to free them from the old plugs before pulling them off
• Get a blow gun with a long thin pipe on the end of it to get down deep into the heat shield by the base of the spark plug and blow them out good with compressed air. This step is critical to clean out the rust. The blow gun I use has probably a 20" extension tube on it and was about $4 at harbor freight.
• Check the gap of the new plugs. Always. Label in front of the radiator will give you the gap. 0.040" if I recall correctly.
• Install the new plugs with just a little bit of anti-seize on the threads. Too much will bind the threads up the next time you remove the spark plugs.
• Put a little bit of dielectric grease in the boot to help prevent it from sticking to the new plugs.

Here's a firing order diagram if you accidentally mix up the plug wires. You can also use a sharpie to mark both ends of each wire with which cylinder it belongs to as you remove them.

 

Sounds good, thanks for the info. I will remove those little heat shields next time around (just did new plugs last week) and will check out the Taylor products.

 

Some really bad advice in this thread....Dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease, it will act as an insulator, DON'T fill your spark plug boot with it, just use a TINY amount around the opening to keep moisture out, it can also help prevent arching.

As said, take the metal heat shields out and toss em in the trash, not needed.

Taylor wires are junk, if you are going to replace the wires get something better. I use Firecore 50s on my Ram and Dakota,

 

I used the house brand for wires. Works fine for a street engine.

 

X2 , I have not heard many good things about Taylor wires . I like my MSDs , they don't care about special TSB routing , but I do anyways .
X2 on blowing out the spark plug area with air , I do it religiously . Before owning a compressor , I would pressure wash the area (hoping I started after , lol) and let it dry out before changing .

These trucks are easy to change plugs in . Hemi's a PITA

 

For the record, I've used Taylor Spiro-Pro wires (not the cheaper Taylor wires) for years on numerous different engines and had absolutely no issue with them. Due to the way the molded spark plug boot is configured, removing the spark plug heat shields is a must for the best fit. These are the wires I used on the Dodge 5.9 Magnum engine in my truck - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-74671

 

I used Taylor Spiro-Pro wires... Once

I'd get some better wires.