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5.9 Engine experts: Please help!

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  #11  
Old 02-06-2015 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Maybe to a cylinder leak-down test. That would at least let you know what the problem was.
Forgive my ignorance, but I have no idea what that is. Lol I am mechanically inclined but I am totally self taught and do all the repairs on my vehicles.. a lot of my guidance has come from this forum!
 
  #12  
Old 02-06-2015 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ballstimeballs
yea I was a bit concerned about #8 being low as well, especially compared to most of the other cylinders, but is it "in range?"
Yes, it's in range, but just barely. The raw value is high enough but the relative value is right on the edge. Blowing the carbon out might just bring those higher numbers down enough to eliminate the cause for concern.

Originally Posted by ballstimeballs
Do you have any idea what might be causing the engine noise I have been experiencing?
A bad PCV valve will cause problems at precisely the time when you say you're getting "a rapping/clacking sound". I'd start with that, and just for the peace of mind would spend a little more to get the replacement part from the dealership.
 
  #13  
Old 02-06-2015 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ballstimeballs
Forgive my ignorance, but I have no idea what that is. Lol I am mechanically inclined but I am totally self taught and do all the repairs on my vehicles.. a lot of my guidance has come from this forum!
Basically, its a pair of gauges, in series. One shows input pressure. (and sometimes has a regulator, so you can set it where you want it.) the other shows the amount of pressure a cylinder will hold. The relationship between the two is expressed as a percentage. So, you get a number that tells you just how much of cylinder pressure is being bled off. According to theory, 25% leakdown is the max "acceptable" value.... though that seems a bit high to me..... The best part about this particular test though, is you can actually HEAR where the air pressure is going. If you hear it out the exhaust, the exhaust valve isn't sealing, hear it out the intake? Intake valve is the problem, hear it out the oil fill cap? Then your rings are the culprit. This is one of THE BEST tests of engine condition. It will tell you how bad, and where the major problem is.

Just hook up the gauge to a cylinder that is at top dead center, in firing position, turn on the air, and look at the gauges, and listen. Very enlightening.
 
  #14  
Old 02-07-2015 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
Blowing the carbon out might just bring those higher numbers down enough to eliminate the cause for concern.



A bad PCV valve will cause problems at precisely the time when you say you're getting "a rapping/clacking sound". I'd start with that, and just for the peace of mind would spend a little more to get the replacement part from the dealership.
Sounds like a plan! I will start with a seafoam treatment today, and I will get a new PCV and o2 sensor asap. I will probably have to wait on the o2 sensor until next week.. do you think I should just pull it out for the meantime?
 
  #15  
Old 02-07-2015 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Basically, its a pair of gauges, in series. One shows input pressure. (and sometimes has a regulator, so you can set it where you want it.) the other shows the amount of pressure a cylinder will hold. The relationship between the two is expressed as a percentage. So, you get a number that tells you just how much of cylinder pressure is being bled off. According to theory, 25% leakdown is the max "acceptable" value.... though that seems a bit high to me..... The best part about this particular test though, is you can actually HEAR where the air pressure is going. If you hear it out the exhaust, the exhaust valve isn't sealing, hear it out the intake? Intake valve is the problem, hear it out the oil fill cap? Then your rings are the culprit. This is one of THE BEST tests of engine condition. It will tell you how bad, and where the major problem is.

Just hook up the gauge to a cylinder that is at top dead center, in firing position, turn on the air, and look at the gauges, and listen. Very enlightening.
Wow! Thank you for the awesome response, I can certainly see why that is such an effective test! I will see if I can get my hands on one soon so I can get some solid answers. I believe that I at the very least have an exhaust valve leak from what others have stated with a ploom of bluish smoke coming from the exhaust on hard throttle. But I'm interested to see what results the test yield.
 
  #16  
Old 02-07-2015 | 11:41 AM
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You will need also need an air compressor for the leak down test.
 
  #17  
Old 02-09-2015 | 08:50 AM
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Hey guys, I still have not had the chance to do a leak down test (no garage in snowy new England makes that nearly impossible!!!) But I did manage to change my two faulty spark plugs and do a couple sea foam treatments and that definitely made a huge difference! The CEL instantly went off and I got to see all of the crap that flew out the exhaust on a nearby snowbank! I think I'm due for a couple more treatments! I also have a denso o2 sensor on its way. Thank you all for the help so far!!
 
  #18  
Old 02-09-2015 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ballstimeballs
But I did manage to change my two faulty spark plugs and do a couple sea foam treatments and that definitely made a huge difference!
Coolness.

You'll still want to do some additional testing to determine if you still have an oil control problem and what the cause might be if you do, but this outcome indicates that carbon in the chambers was in fact contributing to the problem. If it was just remnant from your past oil control problem you're in good shape, but if it's an ongoing problem it'll get expensive fast if not corrected.

Good luck!
 
  #19  
Old 02-10-2015 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
Coolness.

You'll still want to do some additional testing to determine if you still have an oil control problem and what the cause might be if you do, but this outcome indicates that carbon in the chambers was in fact contributing to the problem. If it was just remnant from your past oil control problem you're in good shape, but if it's an ongoing problem it'll get expensive fast if not corrected.

Good luck!
Well, I can tell you that I'm very religious with oil changes between 3-4k. I always use 5-30 Mobil one synthetic.. and about 2-3k into it I have been adding about half to a full quart. Before I did the intake it could eat up 2 quarts in a week!! Its MUCH better now.. I hoping my end solution will just be valve seals, though that seems to easy!
 



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