Also, can you provide me to a link to the M1 intake and the Air Gap? Thanks!

 

Tuner.

Check around the neighborhood for a good machine shop then. Figure one day to rip it all apart, and take it to the shop. It may be DAYS to WEEKS before the shop can address your engine.... but then, once whatever work is approved, it's only a couple days. If the block doesn't need to be over-bored, just have 'em clean them up, and call it a day. (could also consider having them do the short block for you?) Don't order parts till you know what shape the block is in. If you need to punch it out, you will need pistons as well.

I wouldn't even bother taking in the stock heads.... just replace them. They are notorious for cracking around the valve seats.... just a bad design. Odessa/Clearwater offer stock replacements that are NEW castings (don't get the remans....) for under 600.00. (which may strain your budget a bit.... depending on what else you do.)

Might also consider a slightly meaner cam. (I so enjoy spending other peoples money. )

 

Thank you. I am hoping the motor looks good inside, any idea of what kind of money I could be getting into if I have to get it bored out and end up buying new pistons?

 

Varies too much by location, not to mention season.... if you try and get in while everyone and their cousin is trying to get their dirt track engine ready, you may not see it back for a month, or more..... and rates get stupid too.....

Around me, it *used to be* about 8 bucks a hole for bore/hone, and 150-200 for hot tank, complete checkout, and finish cleaning. (and there's a fair bit of optional stuff that can make costs add up quick too.....)

 

in all honesty, I may stick with the stock heads that are on there, for the time being, until I actually WANT the good heads, lol. I am just not hard enough on an engine for a head to crack I dont think, if that makes any sense lol

 

Doesn't matter if you are hard on it or not. The castings were crappy, and cracks are pretty much standard equipment. The decks were just too thin. If you even THOUGHT about the engine getting a tad warm, you would have cracks. If you let the plenum go too long, and the cat clogged, you would have cracks. If you got up before dawn, two days in a row, before the rooster crowed, you would have cracks......

I don't think I have seen anyone on here tear down their motor and NOT find cracks.

 

...you do like spending other peoples money, dont you? lol

In that case, I will definitely be looking into getting some. I checked Odessa/Clearwater and it said to call because they PROBABLY have my headers in stock but they may just not be listed?

 

They sell them on ebay all the time, and have multiple sets layin' about.

I EXCEL at spending other peoples money.

 

Ryan,
You take the new ring and slide it down into the cylinder bore. You do this using a piston to make sure that the ring is square in the bore. Then you take a feeler gauge and check the gap in the ring. Your making sure that when the rings get hot and expand that they don't hit end to end and lock up the piston in the cylinder because they are to big. So when you check the gap if it is to small you have to file the ends of the ring with a ring filer.

For $2,000 you should be able to rebuild the engine and buy new heads. Hot tanking the engine was only about $75 and they installed new cam bearings and freeze plugs.
Ask away on any question you got and I'll try to answer it.

 

Haha call me a liar but the old heads on my 360 weren't cracked, over 150xxx on the motor, still bought Odessa heads. OP even though I rebuilt a stock motor I spent very close to $2,000 on my engine. I did have it bored over 0.030".