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Complete Front Brake Failure

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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 01:01 PM
  #21  
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I researched a little more on here and other places. Gonna start with calipers and hoses and work my way back. I'm thinking calipers and hoses may do it. Still has the stack hoses. Maybe they expand to they point of moving the Pistons but not applying adequate pressure. And the dust covers on the calipers are torn so I'm sure brake dust is hindering proper operation. Does that sound logical to anyone else? I'm a little crazy so reality checks are a must lol
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 01:25 PM
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The hoses I could see, but, calipers? Unless they are leaking, or some other obvious failure (torn boots doesn't really qualify in my book), I would leave 'em. Simple test would be to take a caliper off, and have someone step down GENTLY on the brake. Might put a block of wood or something in there, so the piston can't blow out. (that's always fun.....) See if the pistons are moving... If they aren't, see if you are getting any pressure to them. If you are, THEN replace them.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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I would look into the proportioning valve and see if it's stuck.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 09:22 PM
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Ok, will do. Block of wood in the caliper and see if it's moving( I blew a piston out before lol). Look into valve in the proportioning valve. Will do both.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 09:25 PM
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Mopar, you said earlier that you took stuff apart to see how it worked? I did the same thing lmao. I once took apart 3 remote control cars and put all the best stuff on a single chassis I made out of wood. Had the fastest battery powered car in the neighborhood. It taught me a lot about gear ratios.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 01:06 PM
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I am a firm believer in real hands on experience! We had those "hands on" days in high school where they would bring in want a bees and watch us work. You have to do not watch to learn and remember it. As for taking things apart i still do it! Ever wonder what's inside the black plastic on a crank sensor?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 07:50 PM
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Yup, just changed one on my jeep, been wondering that myself. My assumption is a magnet and coil.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 07:58 PM
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That's the only way I retain info. Hands on approach. I'm wondering how a cruise control module works. I'm about to take that thing apart on my jeep. I've been able to fix a lot of different parts and save myself a lot of money by taking faulty parts apart and fixing subcomponents of them. Most of the time it has been rust and corrosion. Clean stuff up, lube it put it back together and TADA. Works a lot of the time
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 09:17 PM
  #29  
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Ok guys, here is what I did. I took front tires off so I can start to inspect. There were no visa me leaks, so I dug further. Took the calipers off. The brake pads were glazed and cracked due to heat. Seems that my brake hoses were collapsing causing a brake rub, which caused the glazing and cracking. The driver side caliper worked ok, the passenger side had 1 piston moving while the other was stuck. Grabed a rotor and headed to parts store. Got new hoses, new calipers, new pads. Compared to a new rotor, mine were significantly worn and did not trust turning them again. So got new rotors to. Now the brakes work great on the front, but now seems like it's all front. I'll start the inspection on the rear tomorrow. My truck now stops great. Brakes haven't felt this good in a long long time. Also did a tune up including. Cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, IAC sensor, upwind and downwind O2 sensors, and a crank position sensor. Man this thing runs good. Next thing will be new shocks, what shocks would you use for a 2wd with 2" lift in the front and back.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Lil blee
Next thing will be new shocks, what shocks would you use for a 2wd with 2" lift in the front and back.
You could do a lot worse than Bilstein 5100's.
 
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