I have to replace the timing set in my 124,000 mile but strong running 318 this spring and I'm goin with a Mopar double roller and tensioner. But I'm still goin back and forth on if I should cam it or not while I'm in there. I've done cai, full custom exhaust, 180 stat, hughes plenum fix, some kegger & TB massaging and plan on SCT tuning it in the summer. I don't need a crazy cam, jus lookin for the next step up or basically an RV style cam, low rpm high tq that carries power through out the whole rpm range. From what I've heard, these stock Magnum cams are tiny so even the next step up is a big difference. Hughes says I can't run any of their cams w/o new lifters, springs, retainers, locks and keepers. So all together I'd be 700 some dollars in the hole jus for a cam...and that's not where I wanna be. I'd have pull the intake again and pull the heads and I feel it's jus gunna open up a can of worms. It's my daily driver, I'm not getting crazy with it and wanna stay budget friendly with it. My question is has anyone done just a cam swap w/o touching anything else and have any problems. Also any cam suggestions? Or should I say screw the cam and jus tune it.

 

Why would you need to pull the heads? Intake would have to come off to do the cam, that I will certainly agree with..... I am also curious why hughes would want you to replace your lifters... not like theirs are any different. Valve springs and such, yeah, I could believe that too, depending on cam selection. You will probably run into most of that no matter what cam you choose though...... Not to mention, the custom tune it may require. (another 500 bucks.) May want to just sit on the money, build up a bigger pile, and do that when you rebuild the motor.

Something you CAN do RIGHT NOW though, is harland sharp 1.7 roller rockers. Basically makes the engine think you put a higher lift, longer duration (@ .050) cam in, and you only have to pull the valve covers. They run right about 300-350.... depending on source, and phase of the moon.

 

Can of worms is right, cause you need adjustable roller rockers with a cam install, thats another $430, and don't forget hardened pushrods and guideplates. With a cam install stick with 1.6 ratio rockers, let the cam do the lifting. My cam install is still not running great, think it's the lack of a custom tune but one step at a time.

 

I'd have to pull the heads to do the springs and what not but forgot there's a tool to do it on the engine. But I figure it's gunna be a pita either way, and was gunna take more than what I thought. And harland sharps. I've looked into them jus didn't kno how much of a difference they make. I've also heard factory Viper rockers work too. But price wise and functionality which is better. Sounds like I'm best off doin rockers and SCT and wait on the cam till I build a stroker in a couple yrs.

 

One member got 10 horsepower, and 10 torque with JUST changing the rockers. If you have other mods that help the engine breath, you may get more. It is a difference you can notice though.

 

Sweet. I believe these are the ones I need. And a tune should help too
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cs...iew/make/dodge

 

The viper rockers are stamped friction type rocker, only advantage is they are 1.7 ratio. The HS rockers are full roller bearing. Pretty good deal for the fixed 1.7s at about $329.
I bought all my cam swap parts over a long time period, couldn't afford all at once. I'd recommend you do the same or be prepared to spend around $1500.

 

Got 'em cheaper here.

 

That's a helluva deal. It'd much rather spend 300 than 1500. But are they 5/16 or 3/8 and will I need taller valve covers bc of extra lift?

 

you can would be better off getting new valve covers, or just gut the shield out of the inside of factory valve covers for more clearance. I had went to dodge and got there purple cam, it is a bump up from stock ( like a RV cam ) to work with stock components. Soon I will be getting the 1.7 sharp roller rockers to complete the top end.