cranks wont start tested everything HELP
#11
#12
you can test resistance across the two terminals. the colder the engine the higher the resistance. The higher the temps the lower the resistance.
I can't find the table at the moment, but 32f should be a little over 36K ohms (give or take a few k's) temps over 140f or so should be below 1k ohms...or there about. 190f is maybe 560 - 640 ohms?? (going off a feeble memory)
If you can't get the engine running long enough to raise the temps, you'll have to remove and use hot water to test.
I can't find the table at the moment, but 32f should be a little over 36K ohms (give or take a few k's) temps over 140f or so should be below 1k ohms...or there about. 190f is maybe 560 - 640 ohms?? (going off a feeble memory)
If you can't get the engine running long enough to raise the temps, you'll have to remove and use hot water to test.
#13
This is the same thing my truck is doing as well, mine is a 95 though. I changed my coolant temp sensor because it was visibly broken, but it did not help. I checked my fuel quality by cranking the truck over, then removing a plug and using a bbq lighter in the plug hole, mine fired pretty well but it is getting wayyyyy to much fuel. My oil looks like it's more than 1L overfilled and it was not before all this happened.
I'm starting to think it's a jumped timing chain.....anyone have a pic of where the rotor and pickup ring should be at TDC?
I'm starting to think it's a jumped timing chain.....anyone have a pic of where the rotor and pickup ring should be at TDC?
Last edited by Largefarva; 03-16-2015 at 08:42 PM.
#14