1999 Ram With Serious Issues
#1
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Have a 1999 5.9L 4x4 that a couple weeks ago became possessed. For starters fuel gauge stopped working, Transmission went into limp mode and battery goes down after a couple days if I don't drive it. Installed new battery, no change, Limp mode codes were Governor Pressure Solenoid and Sensor, replaced both same codes after replaced still in limp mode. Fuel gauge will show full tank for about a minute after startup but then moves to empty. I had alternator checked it is fine. I am about ready to put a bullet in its head and call it a day. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
#2
#3
#5
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Maybe you're best to take it to a trustworthy shop, it's kinda hard to pinpoint electrical issues unless you know what you're doing.
That being said, for the fuel gauge it's most likely the sending unit, tough to tell if it's that or the cluster unless you have a scanner that can read live data.
Same with the trans, you'd need to check the wiring from the sensors to the module for continuity, which again won't tell you much without a proper scanner to read live data. You could actually have an internal trans issue or a failed module causing this.
The draw may also be a pain to find unless you have a low amp inductive amp clamp. You can try an old method Ive seed before on older cars, it may work but I doubt it.
Take off the battery negative terminal and use a single cable test light to complete the circuit, meaning clamp the clamp to either the post or terminal, and somehow attach the tip to the remaining end. If the light lights up, something is drawing. Now you'll need to pull fuses one by one until the light goes out, when it goes out you have found your draw source. Either that or you've found a module that is staying on because the test light is keeping it awake.
That being said, for the fuel gauge it's most likely the sending unit, tough to tell if it's that or the cluster unless you have a scanner that can read live data.
Same with the trans, you'd need to check the wiring from the sensors to the module for continuity, which again won't tell you much without a proper scanner to read live data. You could actually have an internal trans issue or a failed module causing this.
The draw may also be a pain to find unless you have a low amp inductive amp clamp. You can try an old method Ive seed before on older cars, it may work but I doubt it.
Take off the battery negative terminal and use a single cable test light to complete the circuit, meaning clamp the clamp to either the post or terminal, and somehow attach the tip to the remaining end. If the light lights up, something is drawing. Now you'll need to pull fuses one by one until the light goes out, when it goes out you have found your draw source. Either that or you've found a module that is staying on because the test light is keeping it awake.
#7
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