BUT, we did the rear main seal also. The trans is doing fine, starting to shift a bit more like it should with a few miles on it. However, the rear main still seems to be leaking a bit. I know it is normal for certain seals to leak a bit for the first few miles. Is this the case with the rear mains? I used a FelPro so its a good gasket. Well, good brand anyway. I haven't had the opportunity to do many miles. Just got it done yesterday, maybe 12 miles total so far, so is this a possibility? Is there reason to think it will seal up and be ok or am I looking at dropping the oil pan again?

 

Did you pre-lube the seal before you installed it? Use a good oil pan gasket?

 

You sure it'd new leakage? Not just leftover gunk from the old leak?

 

They are hard to seal up period , but , shouldn't "leak" . Only thing I'm concerned with is the seal direction , was it done right ? And , did you use that plastic tab included with the seal to slide it back in . If not , that could be an issue also .

I'd spray the area down with brake cleaner and see if it's just residual from the job or an actual leak . Hate to say , but , me thinks the pan may have to be pulled .....again . Just make sure it's not coming down the the valve covers , oil pressure switch or distributor .

 

Followed all directions, used the tab. turned right, lubed, all that good stuff. Maybe its just some old stuff working itself out. Wife said the drop she saw on my plywood looked black.

 

And the oil pan gasket was new. Hope the pan doesn't have to come off again. I will drive it for a few days and see what it does, keeping an eye on the oil level. Maybe it will straighten itself out. I know with some gaskets and seals, it is normal to have a few days seepage as they seal and read on another forum (that I am not a member of. It just came up in a Google search) that the rear mains were like that. Also my transmission is not fond of 3rd gear. The others are ok and the fluid is ok. It tachs to 3k or higher before it hits 3rd. All the shifts are solid, just takes a minute before it shifts to 3rd. Hoping with a few miles it will shift better. Any adjustments I need to look into?

 

Was that a used, or rebuilt trans?

 

Double-check the TV cable adjustment. If it's a tad tight it'll shift a bit late from 1-2 and a bit later from 2-3. If it was a used transmission, though, I'd lean more toward the governor pressure sensor or the governor itself being/having been a bit gummy and the new ATF cleaning it up would yield improved shifts over time.

 

I will check the TV cable tmw morning. I am wondering if it is just gunked up, how long it will take to clear out. My plan is to run it about 1000 miles then add a quart of Seafoam Trans-Tune. Then run it about 10 more miles, drain it. Add an auxillary (8-pass) cooler to the existing setup, along with a temp gauge and change out the fluid. I want my fluid juas as cool as possible. And I DO believe I got a good trans out of the wrecked truck, just has a few kinks. Tested it a couple times today to see my shift points. Both runs were driving like I had some sense. 1st round: 1st-2nd...2000rpm, 2nd-3rd...2400, 3rd-4th...2600.
2nd round: 1st-2nd...2200rpm, 2nd-3rd...3000, 3rd-4th...2500. Compared to some I seen, mine aren't so bad, but sounds like its gonna lose its s h i t at 3k-3500rpms. Also notice the 2nd-3rd shift differs by 600rpms between the 2 runs.

 

The more important question is where that crud will end up. Will it plug the cooler, or the valve body? I'd want a remote filter on there like two hours before the used transmission went in so it couldn't get as far as the cooler. The price of a remote filter is probably warranted, given the PITA factor of varnish and/or grit circulating around to make an even bigger job of it.

If the TV cable adjustment is good, you might just pursue the diagnostic procedures detailed in the factory service manual. It could save you some serious money. And if the unit pukes anyway, it's Mega Viper time.