For the valve body check *****, there are (6) 1/4", and the large check ball, and one small one 3/16". The (7) are placed in the upper as depicted in the diagrams, and the small 3/16" is on the opposite side of the separator plate, but according to the diagrams, there is another 1/4" check ball missing, the #7. This one is for smooth Park-to-Forward gear transitions. That would explain the occasional stall when shifting from Reverse to Drive.


I want to install a check ball in the #7 location, but want to make sure that the ATSG is correct.

 

Finished up today! For some reason the crank position sensor started to fail and caused the engine to run poorly, small set back but fixed now.


Some notes:


The transmission operates without any issue, although I only tested it up to about 50mph, but OD works and the TCC operates as it should.


First to second gear shift is about the same as before, I figured drilling the transfer plate would make it more a firm shift, but it's still good. I may go back and remove the check ball for that shift sequence at a later date.


Second to third gear shift is nice and firm, no binding, no flare. I was a little worried since I added a clutch and steel to the direct drum, and had the pressure plate turned down a bit. We shall see if this holds up. TCC lock is nice and firm in third as well.


Third to Fourth is nice and firm too, my measurements must have been somewhat accurate(for the selective spacer), even with the added clutch and steel. TCC lock is nice and firm.


I notice the soft "garage shift" into forward gears after adding the #7 check ball. Im used to the firm shift so it took me a second after bracing for a firm shift that it was in gear. No issues, works as it should.


I retained the OEM pressure regulator spring and added a shim that was included in the sure cure kit, the trans shifts just a tad higher than before, maybe by 200 RPMs or so, which is what I wanted.


I did have to add some shims for the front/rear planetary gears to tighten it up, it was within spec but I wanted it closer to the tighter region of the specification.


Endplay was a little loose for my liking, even though it was at .068" and within spec, I did some math and shimmed the washer in between the turbine shaft and intermediate shaft, endplay is right at .023".


I'm really happy that everything jives and the trans didn't self destruct within the first mile. Like I stated above, I may go back into the valvebody and drill out the 1-2 shift hole or remove the check ball all together.


For reference I coupled the sonnax sure cure kit with the transgo JR shift kit, and there appears to be no conflict with the hydraulics, such as binding or flare between shifts.


Thanks for reading!

 

Awesome! Congrats on a job well done.

Aren't there some overlapping parts between the sonax, and transgo kits?

 

There could be, but I only used the separator plate instructions, all parts were sonnax.


Well, I spoke too soon. O/D doesn't work properly. Took it out on the highway today and O/D slips, barely engages. F*** me running. I can feel it engage but as soon as I step on the throttle it slips. So this weekend Im going to pressure test the O/D apply circuit and see where the pressure is at. Only part I didn't check was the OD piston retainer, for the orifice valve, which could have been the whole cause in the first place. Which means the damn thing may have to come back out again. I cant think of anything else that could be wrong right now, other than something goofed in the valve body. Burns my a$$ because I checked, double checked, and checked again for anything out of spec or out of place, except that damn piston retainer.

 

Bolded part is what I was wondering.

Can you just pull the O/D unit, without dropping the whole trans?

 

Did you yard the check ball out of the cooler line? I *think* that's what caused my 47 to go out a while ago. Never found a cause.

 

Update:


Bought a 200 psi gauge and some high pressure hose, tested the OD circuit and it was only at ~38 psi, normal is 68-72 psi. Moved the gauge over to the accumulator port to test the base idle line pressure and it was a little low, about 55 psi. Dropped the pan and to my surprise I notice right away that there were a couple of the small bolts that had come loose, on the governor housing. Then I looked at the 3-4 accumulator housing and one of the small bolts was loose, not even in contact with the plate, the rest I could unscrew by hand, WTF. I checked the rest of the bolts and they were all tight. So I just took the VB off completely to disassemble and check everything over again, and clean it up just in case some dirt got in there. Also removed the #6 check ball, I want the 1-2 shift to be really firm. Going to turn the pressure valve in and set it at about .340" to boost the line pressure up a little bit, currently its set at .320". My wife talked me into removing the OD assembly to check the clutches and steels since there may have been damage from the slipping, and she said if there was even a little bit just to buy all new OD clutches, her logic was to make sure everything was perfect since I spent all this time and money on the rebuild. I like her logic. Picked out the alto power pack which would add another 2 clutches and steels, 7 total. So with the OD assembly removed I took out the OD brake clutches and they all were in perfect shape, nothing wrong whatsoever. I did find that one of the sun gear bushings was a little snug on the intermediate shaft, it had self clearanced so that would explain the little bit of copper/aluminum glitter in the bottom of the pan. When I installed the bushings I didn't have the right size tool so one of the edges got a little tweaked.


I could have swore I had tightened all the VB bolts, but since Im easily distracted I wouldn't doubt that I missed those. Either way this time Im going to make sure everything is torqued, and check three more times. Going to pick up a new filter and trans fluid tomorrow and put it back together, hopefully for the last time.

 

Well, at least it was a simple fix, and no damage was done. Let us know when you get it back together, how it all works.

I like your wife. She's a keeper.

 

Haha, one of the locals here was selling a Lebaron turbo for cheap, I had to talk her out of talking me into buying it. She's already on board with building a full billet 2004R for the GN. I'm a lucky ****.


Anyway, hopefully tomorrow I will have an update.


https://www.facebook.com/blazer660/videos/10207133455441144/?pnref=story

 

Alright! Found a shop that would re-align the OD assembly today at lunch time, 10 minutes and 20 bucks later it was ready to go. After work I put it all together and took the truck for a drive. Shifts into OD nice and firmly, no slipping.




I didn't check the line pressure but I set the gap right at .350", and removed the #6 check ball, which forces line pressure through a smaller orifice to soften the 1-2 shift. It's a nice aggressive shift at WOT, but not too hard, the accumulator is doing its job. All shifts are perfect, now I need to get it to the exhaust shop.