It could read 12 even with a dead cell. Try jumping it?

 

No I haven't tried that yet. I don't get why after I turn the key to start all the lights and electronics quit working. You would think if the battery was just weak they would stay on but maybe dim. Maybe it's just coincidence, but I turned the key faster than I normally do when this all started. Maybe I'm just overthinking this because I'm use to more complicated matters haha.

 

That's almost always a bad ground cable. Sometimes they'll smoke a bit to give themselves away.

 

That much of and amp draw will cause an arc at the point of connection. Thus separating the connection that's why nothing works. You have a poor connection either at the battery post or somewhere else along the line.

 

Start with removing/cleaning/reinstalling the the leads to the battery.

 

Agreed! I dealt with this several times on my old car. Turn the key and the power goes out. If you know for sure your battery is good and your connections are good, you could check the starter as well. I've had the same symptoms with a starter once as well.

 

I was in a bit of a distracted state, so here's the rest of what I should have written:

Get yourself a set of good quality jumper cables with fat conductors (not just fat insulation). Hang both clamps at one end on the negative terminal of the battery (leaving all else that's usually there in place), and at the other end clamp one onto something substantial on the engine block, and the other to a beefy point on the frame. Route the cables where they won't be in harm's way, then try starting the truck to see what happens. If you've got a bad ground causing the problem it'll probably start right up and look normal.

If that's what happens, shut 'er down and remove one of the clamps. Frame or block doesn't much matter, but I'd start with the one on the block because it's most likely the culprit. Try again. Symptoms return? It's a ground conductor that you've recreated with the remaining clamp -- if the one that's still connected is on the block, then it's a connection from battery negative to the block that's fubar. If the one still connected is on the frame, it's a connection from battery negative to frame that's hosed up. Time to go hunting.

Symptoms didn't change? That leaves only body ground. If you know for sure that one of the two you've just tested is perfectly sound, remove that clamp (block or frame) and hang it on a beefy part of the body somewhere. The bottom, stationary side of a hood hinge is usually a good bet. Then try again. If the symptoms go away, it's a ground conductor with one side on the body that's causing the trouble.

If doing that doesn't change anything for you, then it's probably a fault on the positive side. It's usually not, which is why I always start on the ground side of things. But if it is, it's time to look carefully at the PDC.

 

Well this is all it took lol. I overlooked the simple stuff because my clamps and battery are relatively new, and they were on tight. I was also confused because after a failed attempt at starting everything would quit working not just the starter motor . I'll remember all the other tech given too so I'm ready for anything next time haha.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Sometimes we overlook the simple things.