Can anyone advise me on a "quality" A/C compressor?


The clutch on my Sanden 4683 compressor is making an awful squealing noise -- when and only when the A/C is OFF. Is that normal?


RockAuto choices:
DENSO Part # 4717010 (Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4746788, 55036799, 55055339, 55055339AD, 55055340, 55055540, 55055540AC, 55055540AE, 55055540AG, 55055540AM, 55056094AB)

FOUR SEASONS Part # 58553 - Compressor w/ Clutch; 5/8" Ports

GPD Part # 6511551 w/ Clutch


Someone mentioned this problem may have emerged because of an ignition issue. I trust this "someone". But how could that be? Can someone please put that in layman's terms for me?




Is it necessary to replace the condenser and drier at the same time if I do decide to replace the entire compressor.


Finally, would the following repair be a waste of time considering the Sanden compressor is stock from 1996?


thx again,
-C

 

Squealing when the compressor is NOT running is bearing failure in the clutch. You could just replace the clutch....... parts are indeed available for that. You can get it directly from Sanden for around 85 bucks, and you don't even need to crack open the system.

 

@ HeyYou, thanks yet again! I was patiently awaiting your feedback - you seem well respected here (to say the least!).


check this out > http://www.intheclutchbearings.com/a...35x55x20-.html


I have access to a press and the parts store has a decent rental puller...do you think I can also buy some more "time" at the parts store? ha!


I will git r done one way or another and now it's officially added to my projects list for this weekend.


keep those opinions coming folks...thx!

 

Just replace the bearing? ok, that seems reasonable. Need to do it soon though, if the bearing seizes, Bad Things™ can happen.

 

Quoted from my go-to shop...$650 or $1000.00 -- ugh *gulp"


$650.00 if new compressor is needed because apparently one line must be cut to remove the oem compressor. That line/labor adds an extra ~$150.00 to the overall repair price.


$1k if when the line is cut we discover that there is debris in the line. At that point, add an hour or two of labor to flush all lines, plumb/mount a new condenser, plus the cost of said condenser.


Considering the compressor is the original with 281,234 miles a compressor-clutch job does not make sense IMO if my plan is to drive this truck into the ground. The engine feels great, tranny smooth and crisp with red fluid and regular rear-end oil changes.


Thoughts?


There is a lot of my "time" involved if I follow the youtube video and swap the clutch bearing myself (a full weekend day for sure - if not two) : at what point does your time negate the labor costs from the shop?


Prices seem fair to me - but please speak up if you feel different and tell me why?


thx

 

Way too much money.

If it only squeals when the compressor is OFF, and your a/c still works decent, then the compressor is probably good, and does NOT warrant replacement.

You just need to replace that bearing, which, even if you have never done it before, with the right tools, should be able to do in an hour or two. Or, you could spend a bit more money, get the whole clutch kit (85 bucks from Sanden), and have it done in half an hour.

No lines need to be cut to replace the compressor. No idea where they got that from. When I did my plenum, I unbolted it, and set the whole thing off to the side, without even removing the lines. (didn't crack the system.)

 

There should be no "line cutting"??? everything has disconnects... if it has to be cut out, how does the new go in?... is he welding aluminum lines?
A new compressor (w/clutch) is ~$200... a dryer and cold line is maybe~$80.
That leaves $370 for labor... seems fair... at $80/hr that's 4½hrs, which is probably right.
I don't know that flushing should be extra though... seems to me that is just good shop practice.
Now if the evaporator core has to be replaced, that will add to the price... dash has to be pulled.

 

Thx guys. Is this the part you speak of? > http://store.sanden.com/index.php/re...t/list/id/478/

Do I still need to press in the bearing with the kit? Do I still need to pull off the old pulley with some sort of puller?

thx

 

Yep, that'd be the feller.

 

I can do this. Fellow forum members, does anyone have a Miller #6460 special tool set like this one > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miller-Special-Tools-6460-Kit-Sd-709-Air-Condition-Supplemental-Tool-Set-/311209424349?nma=true&si=JTaB%252FuvhO%252F72bmbloFWii0DUJCE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 ?


I'd pay for shipping both ways plus a rental fee of course. If you no longer need it, I'd buy it from you if the price was right.


thx