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V 10 torque converter

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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 10:58 PM
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Default V 10 torque converter

I want to stick a 1995 V10 in my Trail Duster, anyone know if the V 10 flex plate / converter share the same bolt pattern as a say 76 360 / 727 torque converter?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 11:33 PM
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Why not go with a 47 or 48RH?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 11:51 PM
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Because the existing 727 / 203 work just dandy! is why, the V 10's are internal balance so I would like to just remove the additional 360 weights and just use my existing trans, converter and transfer case.
I have never seen a V 10 flex plate and have no idea if the converter patterns are the same hence the question.
Thanks for your input.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 10:35 AM
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I wouldn't be surprised if the bolt patterns at the crankshaft were different, but, I don't know that for a fact...... Friendly with a local parts store? Could you pick up a V-10 flex plate, and compare it to your existing one?

I suspect there may be other differences as well. I think the older transmissions/torque converter had fewer ring gear teeth as well... so, may require a different starter?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 09:35 PM
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Bolt pattern for Cummins/V10 is specific to them only. You could pick up a 727 from behind an early 89-91 cummins dirt cheap though, then at least all your mounts and everything work the same for sure.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 11:39 PM
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Thanks, I found that it's a 6 bolt pattern on the converter and the flex plate is it's own animal it also has a 23 spline input shaft with a 1.810 pilot soooo, the front pump, direct drum and input shaft from 47rh into 727 case is going to be the maneuver I think, still researching part numbers.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 12:01 AM
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Ah crap, forgot about that business... You might need to machine the back of the input shaft to accept the pilot on the output shaft. The 4 speed transmissions had smaller pilots (shorter and smaller diameter) than the 3 speed transmissions. It's not impossible, just need to take both inputs down to the machine shop to be matched up... The only other tricky part will be the converter, it's a lockup unit and needs the proper VB to function right. Knowing it requires pressure in front of the lockup apply piston to keep it from applying I'd worry the non lockup VB won't supply this oil and the converter will lock right away.

Tracking down a lockup VB and making it work, coupled with the machine work to make the input work sounds more and more like you would be better off swapping in the 47Rh and being done with it. They aren't much longer, I'd say it's something worth considering.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 12:48 AM
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Hmmm I already have another 727 input shaft and drum laying around and will have a 47rh input shaft to peruse on Thursday.
Switching to a 47 case is just as much if not more pain with hanging the range housing and 203 in back I reckon changing the front internals will be simpler.

If the od switch is in the off position (which is actually closed and grounded) and the od lamp illuminated the tcc solenoid isn't controlled and it has no idea a 4th gear is there to engage so I don't foresee a problem with tcc issue, your thoughts on the circuit, If I misunderstand?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 10:06 AM
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TCC is still enabled if O/D is turned off.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 12:44 PM
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So I see that pin 54 controls tcc solenoid by the pcm pulling to ground so it's "live" all the time and if you ground it, it will engage the lock up, so leaving it open the solenoid doesn't work and by putting pcm pin 10 to ground it will make it Mr. pcm think it's only a 3 speed with out a converter clutch from what I can see.
This is an interesting project wish I pics to post of this thing!
 
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