75/140 (synthetic) is recommended if you do a lot of hauling/towing, otherwise, the 80/90 will be fine. I prefer to get the additive separately.... that way, I KNOW the right stuff is in there.

 

I got the pinion nut off and replaced the seal. I had it marked before I took it off but I had to use and impact to get it off so I didn't get to count the turns by the time it flew off. Powerful impact gun. I turned the nut on and cant get my marks to line up. Its about 1/8" off. I used a 1/2" ratchet with 18" breaker bar and can't get it to go on anymore. That fluid smells horrible though. I would use impact gun but I don't want to go past my marks and put more pressure on that sleeve and bearings

 

Just tap lightly with the impact. It's all about trigger control. (I sound like my training instructor in the military.....)

Yeah, the fluid does smell awful.... even when it is new, and clean.

 

I thought I was light on trigger taking it off..next thing I knew the nut went spinning off. I guess I just wanted to make sure its not possible to go an extra turn past my marks by hand. I will try using the pipe from my jack to get more torque before hitting it with the impact.

 

Must be a really billy impact.

Longer pipe should work.

 

Longer pipe with the truck running (power brakes) I was able to turn it with the marks lining up. Then I realized I forgot to put loctite on the nut. Is it necessary? Also, how much rotational play should there be when turning the pinion flange?

 

Not very much play at all. ZERO in-and-out play.

It's probably a locking nut in any event, so, chemicals shouldn't be required.

 

Here's a pic of the gears. I couldn't find anywhere where it said if I had LSD or open diff. I jacked the rear up and rotated the tires and they turned in opposite direction. I just want to be 100% sure I don't have limited slip before I fill it up. I'm gonna pull the vent tube off and check it also. I don't see the clutch packs either

 

No LSD for you.

 

Know the torque specs for the driveshaft bolts?