rear differential/pinion leaking
My truck has been sitting in the shed for a while, only being driven once every 2 to 3 weeks. I pulled it out the other day and noticed my rear differential is leaking at the pinion seal and also around the cover gasket. I plan on replacing the gasket and pinion seal, but I wanted to know if these trucks use a crush sleeve or shims, what diff. fluid to use, and if anyone knew any torque specs on the bolts before I start the repair. 2001 1500 4x4. Thanks
Crush sleeve.
When mine was leaking, I just marked the position of the pinion nut, took it off, replaced the seal, and put it back on, a hair bit tighter. Been fine that way for four years now. (mine is a D60, but, also a crush sleeve.)
When mine was leaking, I just marked the position of the pinion nut, took it off, replaced the seal, and put it back on, a hair bit tighter. Been fine that way for four years now. (mine is a D60, but, also a crush sleeve.)
Yep- crush sleeve.. Diff cover torque spec is 35ft.lbs and recommended lubricant is 80W-90. I'm sure you prob have limited slip so make sure you get the friction additive or limited slip gear oil that already has it. It will say on the front of the bottle that it has it already. The additive wont affect anything if you dont have limited slip but if you do and you dont use the additive it will eventually ruin the clutches causing failure and you will have to remove your carrier and rebuild it. Also you can replace the seal and just reinstall and torque your pinion nut to 210ft.lbs and never even mess with your crush sleeve its not necessary to remove your outer bearing and crush sleeve to replace your seal. But remember to use loctite when you reinstall your pinion nut.
ok thanks. I will pick up some diff fluid tomorrow. After looking around on here, some people say fill it to the bottom of the hole, and others say keep it about 1/2" below the hole. Which is correct so it wont leak again? What kind of sealant would you recommend for the cover? Also should I use any RTV when doing the pinion seal? Is it possible to get the crush sleeve out when doing the pinion seal?
Last edited by coldsteel5; Oct 1, 2015 at 11:06 PM.
Don't need any sealer for the pinion seal. It has some on it, that seals up quite nicely when you drive it in. Be sure and lube the friction surface of the seal before installing the yoke though. Make sure the yoke is squeaky clean.
I just use black or red RTV to seal the rear cover, and I fill to the bottom of the hole. No leaks.
I just use black or red RTV to seal the rear cover, and I fill to the bottom of the hole. No leaks.
Don't need any sealer for the pinion seal. It has some on it, that seals up quite nicely when you drive it in. Be sure and lube the friction surface of the seal before installing the yoke though. Make sure the yoke is squeaky clean.
I just use black or red RTV to seal the rear cover, and I fill to the bottom of the hole. No leaks.
I just use black or red RTV to seal the rear cover, and I fill to the bottom of the hole. No leaks.
Thanks. Do you know what size the nut is?
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its hard to tell, but it almost looks like it could be leaking from around where the axle tube goes into the differential housing or around the hole on the housing,where the axle tube goes in. Would the seal of the cover make it look this way?
Finally found the time to get the oil and socket I needed. The only 80w-90 oil I found was Valvoline with additive. There was only 75W in mobil 1 and royal purple. Does it make that much of a difference? I don't care for valvoline much, and its not full synthetic. But I also read somewhere that said not to use full synthetic with LSD. Should I use the valvoline 80w-90 and also still add the friction addititive? Or go with a brand such as royal purple or Mobil 1?







