Yeah, get rid of the check valve, they are notorious for causing problems.

I would be tempted to open up the trans harness, and visually inspect the wiring.... I know, pain in the rear.... but, what else is there??

 

Will give it a try. Looked good before i put new trans in. Pressure washed all and dried and inspected too. Then sat for almost a month to dry waiting for new trans. Also trying kick-down cable looser than now as maybe that could be it still. Downshifts easy still, less than 1/4 pedal to come out of overdrive.
Thanks

 

Not to hijack this thread but...


Since we're on the subject of the check valve, I saw a thread making up a brass fitting to replace the check valve fitting. Earlier in this thread, it was mentioned about drilling it out. Which is the preferred method of eliminating it? What, again, are the symptoms if you try to drive off without the converter filled up?
Thanks.

 

Drilling out the check ball leaves you with the factory style connectors, instead of hose clamps. Not to mention, the only thing you might have to buy for that route is a drill bit.....

You can't drive off until the converter fills. Takes a few seconds once you put it in gear, and then away you go. Only really an issue the first drive of the day, after that, should be fine. (till the next day.)

 

Well, Loosened up the Kick-down sable some more and checked fluid. Was at the add level. Maybe a little low was tripping the trans code. Put about 150 miles on it so far but it usually takes 175-200 to trip it so we will see. I'm going to drill out the check valve one night this week even though its brand new. Harness is brand new inside the trans., comes with OD solnoid. Outside trans wiring looks to be in good shape as well. No pinch marks and pulled off loom to inspect. It noticed it did surge upon a stop before adding fluid so maybe that was it or maybe the check ball has gotton clogged with something? We will see.
Thanks

 

Issues again. Since i posted last i put 1000 miles on it. The Overdrive has shut off 4-5 times in the past few months with no codes. The last 2 days in a row had OD shut off after about 30 miles easy driving, now i got a trans temp light and OD off. Pulled over in nutural to cool and will not go away. Shut truck off and cool completely they both stay off until you drive 30-40 miles. Shifts are fine and no slipping. I will add, 2 days ago it seems to be have no power from a stop until 2nd gear shift then took off like normal.
Just because, 01 ram 1500 4X4 5.2L
BW Solenoids
RE-built Trans
Drain back valve gone/new lines because
Thanks!

 

It would be interesting to have a scanner plugged in, and see what the temp sensor is reporting. if it is some stupid number, you can bet that it is likely a wiring problem..... I think you have replaced the sensor more than once already, haven't you?

 

By the time the Trans Temp light comes on you're already cooking varnish, so you'll want to do a full fluid change (not just what falls out when the pan comes off) real soon now if you intend to keep that transmission.

You've got low cooling flow there, and if it's not in the cooler(s) or external lines then you've got a crap rebuild there. If you're certain that the lines and coolers are wide open, you might want to take a look at Sonnax TASC Tip 12-05 for ideas. If you can find it online... If not I can probably send you a copy somehow.

 

Yes I have changed the no name sensors that came from the re-builder to the Borg HD ones. Weird thing is I had over 1000 miles on it with no issues just hauling air! Usually drive it once a week for a 60 mile trip is about it. I can say one thing, when I removed the check ball (was brand new) not much fluid came out of the line or radiator and it was at normal temp. Maybe something clogged in the rad but if so I think I would have melted it already and would be slipping or something. The shifts seem fine but temp light really hit 2 days ago when it had no power from a dead start, like starting in 2nd but it wasn't. Could the OD be locking up while stopped in first?

 

I have heard about TPMS causing shifting/overdrive issues. Any thoughts on that? Idle and starting is good.