The system will naturally build pressure as the engine warms. That is the way it is supposed to work. (higher internal pressure means higher boiling point of coolant. That's why when you open the system when hot, you get a geyser....... with the pressure released, boiling point quickly drops below the temp the coolant already is, so, it flash-boils........ not a fun experience.)

What pressure is the radiator cap rated for? (should be 16-18 lbs.) If it isn't working properly, it may be allowing pressure to go to high, and pushing the hose off.

 

I do know it sucks antifreeze back into radiator. Radiator had to be low as I took hose off top at radiator and lost some fluid. Then after driving and cooling it had almost sucked all the overflow antifreeze back into radiator and radiator was full. I added antifreeze to overflow and marked tank. Even put a little extra in radiator and watched it slowly run into overflow. After it heated up, the overflow did go up 1 3/4 inch. So overflow system is working.

The radiator cap has a 16 stamped on top, bought it about year ago when put in new water pump and thermostat which was 190 degree. radiator cap must be working, I did push the spring a few times before putting back on, guess it could have been stuck, doubt it, but possible.

Hose that going into block is at bottom corner, return is top corner, there is no space between bottom and hose connection.

 

Disconnected hose from top radiator and inspected, radiator nipple and hose (inside and outside), all looked fine, I took a long look in the 24 degree weather, couldn't see any problems. Clamp looked fine. Outside of hose does have a dimple or grove to match clamp impression, but nothing on inside of hose. Put on new clamp and old clamp, so it is doubled clamped.

I don't like that setup and think even if it don't leak, I will put on a new upper Gates hose. First off to Harbor Freight for some long neck hose clamp pliers. The clamp on thermostat housing is difficult using long neck needle nose, don't want to fight that again.

 

I found it easier to just pull the thermostat cover off to remove that d@mn hose.

 

You know that is not a bad idea, if those pliers give me grief, I will do that.

 

Why not just try a new hose and see if that cures it. If it's still seeping, then you've got something going on that your eye can't quite see. Screw type clamp should be fine, just don't reef on tightening it.

 

I think you are right, went and got these pliers to get off the difficult clamp. The one on thermostat is a pain. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...ers-37909.html

 

If the neck of your radiator where the hose attaches is plastic, do not use screw clamps. Reason being is that with radiator heat expansion, the screw clamps do not give and the plastic eventually cracks. Google it and you'll understand.

Use constant only tension/spring clamps, which expand and contract as needed.



And you need strong ones, not the cheap lightweights that come with aftermarket parts. A junkyard is a great place to collect them if you need some size variations due to thinner hoses. If you're attaching to metal, then screw type is fine as metal won't crack.

Also, the clamp remover you linked is actually a hose remover and won't help.

You need this...
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch...ers-39539.html

 

That makes sense about the clamps and one of the reasons I have held off putting on a new hose. I have a friend that had several old Dodge trucks in his pasture, he buys old junk. Was going to look around for a spring clamp.

 

Finely got around to putting new Gates hose on, will see if that fixes the small leak. I did double clamp it prior to putting on new Gates hose and it just barely got a paper towel wet that I wrapped around top hose clamps, so it wasn't much of a leak in first place, just bugs me.