True. But, I have seen too many times the 'quick fix till the part comes in' stays on the truck until something bad™ happens..... In the meantime, the 'right' part has been sitting on the bench for a couple months......

 

Try here...
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...PQ=Dana+Spicer

I couldn't find the # in mine either. ??? I don't think you will find auto parts store that has this on the shelf. A dana/truck supply house maybe. It's not a part that gets replaced all that much so you will most likely have to order it.

 

I've got a spare inner and outer for the pass side hanging in my shed. If it becomes necessary, PM me and I'll sent it for the cost of shipping.

Otherwise, and more quickly, check Car-Part.com for a used one in your area. I worked in the recycling business for 15 years and it's a pretty good resource.

 

Well, I decided to just go for it. I noticed that I was able to thread it all the way on without running into the damaged threads by hand with the hub on, so I don't think that it really is an issue. Just a matter of bleeding the brakes, getting the tires on, and getting it back on the road.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

Need to torque that feller to something like 180ft/lbs...... (axle nut, not bleeder valve. )

 

For buggered up threads, I can usually fix by either a thread file, triangle file or knife edge file. I'd never take a grinder of any kind to it. I just don't trust myself with power tools for something like that. Too easy to get a runaway action happening, or over doing it.

 

That's a LOT of hand filing if the end is mushroomed over. To each his own.

 

The example you're showing wouldn't take but a few minutes to fix up with a good set of files.

 

Considering those threads are just kinda hanging out in space when the nut is tightened, I would be real tempted to just file/grind them off, and call it a day.

 

That was my point. Like using a 16 penny nail for a 1/4 inch board.