Leaking transmission line, should I do the delete check valve mod?
Well, I have developed a minor drip on my transmission line, not sure if it is from the connection or the line itself, and I am looking to fix it. I really see two available options, do the check valve delete mod and replace the whole section of hose, or buy a line online and just replace it. It looks like doing both methods will end up costing the same, ~$25.
Also, the line that I found online is the Dorman 624-305, which on the Dorman site lists it as compatible with 97-01, but it looks like I can just pull the section off that goes to the radiator and replace it.
Would it be wiser to just replace the line, or build the custom line?
Also, I was reading that you can just drill the check valve out, would that be a wise option if I buy the Dorman line?
Also, the line that I found online is the Dorman 624-305, which on the Dorman site lists it as compatible with 97-01, but it looks like I can just pull the section off that goes to the radiator and replace it.
Would it be wiser to just replace the line, or build the custom line?
Also, I was reading that you can just drill the check valve out, would that be a wise option if I buy the Dorman line?
On trucks with the heavy duty, plow, or towing package, yep, there is an aux cooler in there, and adding another one is just kinda redundant. Now, adding an external, in-line filter, that also incorporates a check valve, is a rather good idea. Not only does it give you an easily replaceable check valve/filter, you also get a bit more fluid volume to boot.
Unless you have that tow pack like hey you said I thought they only came with little itty bitty cooler.
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The external cooler just increases cooling. It actually slightly reduces flow...... but, not nearly so much as a clogged up check valve will. (wave bye-bye to the nice transmission.....) If you tow/haul at all with your truck, having the additional cooling is a REALLY good idea.
Opps, external filter doesn't increase flow either. Its the elimination of the check valve that is the end goal here. Of course, the check valve is in there to prevent the torque converter from draining down, and causing a delay before actually going into gear the first start of the day. (a few seconds at most.....)
Opps, external filter doesn't increase flow either. Its the elimination of the check valve that is the end goal here. Of course, the check valve is in there to prevent the torque converter from draining down, and causing a delay before actually going into gear the first start of the day. (a few seconds at most.....)
I do have the towing package, so there is that aux cooler in there, but I don't do too much towing/hauling, so I don't think that I need to add and additional cooler to the loop. However, I would like to add a remote filter. Is it entirely necessary to re-introduce a check valve when adding a remote filter, or could I just live with waiting a few seconds before I take off (which I kind of already try to do)?







