94 dodge ram 2500 4x4. 46rh 241d.




I took my O/D unit off and rebuilt it. Put it back on and now I can only use 1st gear or reverse. Even in D I can't get it to shift. I ran it up to 5500 and still would not shift. Park holds so I think my parking rod is good. The shifting linkage is a little off so like I see it as N and its in Drive or something like that. Could that be the cause of the trans not wanting to shift? I also see a cable going to the throttle body, could that be the cause? I assume because it won't shift at all it could be something else. Fluid says full. Is there a chance I had to prime the system so it would pump through? It acts like it doesn't have enough fluid. Reverse is Solid! I can mash it and it'll spin the tires. D,2,1 all act like first gear and is so so. Not strong by any means. Kind of stutters but once it's engaged I can run it down the road. If I keep it in D, it will run fine( in first) but will randomly stop putting power to the wheels until I manually shift it down the column. Any tips? Trying to get it to Easter Jeep Safari so I'm not sure what the common problems might be.


Thanks

Could a different PCM solve the issue? Just trying to figure out how it all works

 

On yours, 1-3 are all hydraulically controlled, PCM has nothing to do with. Throttle valve cable being disconnected may be part of the problem, but, I don't think it's all of the problem. So far as the trans is concerned, with the cable disconnected, you aren't stepping on the gas.... it should still shift, but, they will be very soft. Hook up the cable, get it, and the shift linkage adjusted properly, try again. See what happens.

You are checking fluid level in neutral, right?

 

Checking it in Neutral. Is has more than it's supposed to in there but that shouldn't make it not shift. The throttle cable spring is week and doesn't pull the cable back through. I will readjust it and the shift linkage tonight! Thanks!

 

The spring isn't a strong one to begin with so it is probably not weak.
You need to disconnect the TV cable you mentioned from both the side of the trans and the throttle linkage unit under the hood.
Then see if it binds or catches at all.......if you cannot run it in and out of the sleeve by hand from either end, it is dirty or binding.

Fixing that will help, but it is not the end cure.

 

I also want to say that I lost the feeling you get when shifting down the column. It just feels free floating instead instead of the clunking you get when normally shifting.

 

Sounds like the linkage is disconnected?
That clunk you are refering to is not only a normal part of the AT putting pressure though the servos to snap the bands taunt, but it is also the "rooster Comb" part of the shift linkage clicking.
It has a spring loaded BB that basically helps hold the gear selection in place

 

Well I went ahead last night and adjusted the linkage. It was definitely off. I wasn't actually getting into first. The trans would only drop to second. So now I have it set perfect. I disconnected the rear drive shaft (I have SYE and front lock hubs). and unlocked the front hubs. In 4h and 4l... if I put it in first, it spins slow... definitely first now!!! if I put it in second, it speeds up! Neither shift when giving it gas which is how it should work. when I put it in D. I assume it's starting in 2 and never shifting to 3! In D, I don't see any shifting so It looks like it starts in second. I'll confirm this tonight when I take it off the trailer and try to drive it but I am pretty sure its stuck in second on D. The TV works flawlessly. Going to pick up and trans parts I might need today and prepare to drop the pan tonight if it's not working like it should. Thanks for you knowledge Double 0! That's a good picture of the linkage. I'll check out the internals of that when I open it up. Definitely something might be bent.

 

If it is stuck in any one gear and wont shift up or down--You are in "Limp Mode"
If that is what the deal is, then again, I strongly recommend saving yourself some time, more damage and more dread, just replace the Gov pressure sensor and transducer.

Since it is an electronic pair of parts most commonly associated with the failures of our 2nd Gens AT's, it is a part best replaced even if you only suspect it slightly.

Here's to Logic, and that mythical thing people refer to as common sense---

If a truck is 12-17 years old, and the pan has never been off the AT that you know of, it is probably a good idea to start considering it and getting the bits that are going to fail and have them one the ready.
Dodge AT failures in frequency from most common to least are caused by:

#1 Gov Pressure Sensor
#2 Worn Bands
#3 worn clutch plates
#4 overdrive lock-up solenoid
#5 overheat /blockages in cooler line

Dodge definitely wasn't thinking when they used cast aluminum pistons in the front and rear shift servo's. The design of the front one leaves it stronger then the rear one, and never fails. The rear one due to design (and made of cast Alum) is Almost ALWAYS (98%) are found broken when the pan gets dropped.
It being broke does not prevent the rear Band from being operational and you won't loose reverse over it, it is simply worth being mentioned because a Billet steel Piston upgrade should be ordered by anyone opening their pan the first time....completely broken or not, it is still likely cracked or slightly deformed and not far from breaking.

 

His truck is a 94, so, he has the 46RH, no governor pressure sensor or solenoid to deal with there. The computer only controls TCC, and O/D solenoids. If his trans isn't shifting, it is a mechanical problem..... and if the basic maintenance doesn't fix it, probably time for rebuild.

 

I felt like I missed something

Okay did some quick web scouring,
So the mechanical listing of operating order I found for that one states.......

the front band is D2(manual low 2)and D-range 2nd gear
the reverse band, operates reverse and D1(manual low 1)/ reverse

the front CLUTCH operates, reverse,D-range 3rd & 4th
the rear CLUTCH operates, ALL forward D-range as well as the D1/D2 manuals
the OD CLUTCH operates, D-range 1st, as well as D1/D2 manuals

seems like electronic limp mode--what are the odds off the Tcc and O/D lockup are just done?