seems others have had this problem to, ive had it for a couple years and getting around to messing with it again.
1. I have a amp drain and when I pull the trans fuse it goes away
2. I also have a P1765 and P0753 codes. I know what these codes are and everything is transmission related. tranny is fine.
I reset the battery with a battery disconnect switch after I drive it and never get a engine lite or codes unless I don't disconnect the battery after driving. then go to restart it.
Truck drives fine, I can drive 1000 miles and never see the engine lite or code, Trans rebuilt with all new everything, solenoids everything new. Relay is good.
if I leave the battery connected it will kill a new battery in about 3 days just sitting. I`m getting almost a full amp draw. over the normal draw.


Is it the PCM? or a short?


Any ideas?

 

Ya might just try this procedure.

 

thanks for the web page, but has a ton of abbreviations I know nothing about. whats a DRB, and the DTC's. I think the just of it is check the wiring from the relay box to tranny to computer right?

 

DRB = Diagnostic Readout Box (a scantool)
DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code (e.g. P1765)

What that test procedure would do for you is to show:

1. Is there a DTC present?
2. "
3. Is there coil relay power available?
4. Can the PCM reach the transmission relay?
5. Is the transmission relay coil control shorted to ground?
6. Is the relay coil open?
7. Do you need to scream and cry?
8. Is there any point continuing?
9. Is there a break in the cabling?

The gist of it is to test the conductors, relay, and the PCM's relay control signal.

 

gota love it. all I have is a cheap code reader I got from harbor freight, but it works, I hate it when it tells me the truth! I do have power to the relay, thats is far as I got before my back went out, BUT I have to jump the relay with a wire, I got that idea from someone on this thread and it works so far as the eng lite doesn't come on until I have drove it and stopped turned it off and restarted it. if I drove 1000 miles the light would never come on. weird! but if I put the relay back in the light comes right on no matter what I do as soon as I start the truck.. by the way do you really have play in the front steering to! lol I got a little but only when I went to a larger tire.

 

The jumper changes things. Care to describe what you're doing there? And the backstory leading up to doing that?

I'm getting a glow over my head, but whether it's a light bulb or just that I've finally got so far up my butt that I'm finding daylight again remains to be seen.

Not really. There's some perceptible backlash, but not really what I'd consider play. Once I'm out of town (which takes no more than a couple of minutes no matter which way I go) I'm usually motoring along with just one wrist resting atop the steering wheel, and not correcting for deviation from dead ahead true. I still plan to go with the Borgeson box, sector shaft brace, and Rock Solid Ram Steering Fix just because the Saginaw boxes and factory installed steering column bushings basically suck, but so far the factory installed setup is still working just fine.

I've only got 126,512 miles on the clock, so it'll be a while yet before things like steering boxes, tie rods, and track bars become problems for me.

 

The jumper is to keep the code/eng lite from popping up every time I start the truck. with the jumper in I only get a code/eng lite when I turn off the eng then restart it without disconnecting the battery to reset the comp.
the high amp draw is with or without the jumper. doesn't mater if the relay is in it or not.


mine just hit 201,000 very little play

 

Where is it situated? It'd be best if you could reference the schematic in the factory service manual so I can take a look and know right where it's connected.

 

ill take a pic tomorrow. I cant remember the pins im jumping now. And is the transmission solenoid harness connector easy to get to? I was told I have to take it off to run certain test.

 

Jumping the relay: ??? Did you jump a ground to it so it stays on? If so that would cause the drain. Or did you jump the relay completely and give 12v+ to the trans? You need to remove the jumper and and figure out whats going on. By you jumping the relay may have cause the codes. PCM will turn on the relay when needed.