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96 dodge ram starting problems.

Old May 30, 2016 | 10:08 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Try letting the pump prime once before turning all the way to start. if that doesn't make any difference, try stepping down just a LITTLE bit on the gas pedal before starting.
Still having same issues, I always let the pump prime in all vehicles for some reason just a habbit ! Nothing changes but when I give a little gas it starts right up but then won't idle. Also while its not idling properly there's a loud whine from the fuel pump. And I noticed today that the battery gauge was around I'd say 10v while it was trying to idle. Probably just cause its idling low but may be a clue ?

My snap on scanner said the target idle was 600 rpm so I adjusted my idle to that, (now I don't have engine light on. Heyyou helped with that problem on another thread)

So when it starts it revs up then as its coming back down to idle it stalls out or stays very low until the truck warms up then is fine ??

So far what I've replaced in the truck is

Wires
Rotor
Plugs
IAC
Both o2 sensors
Injector 2 (failed which caused misfire)

Truck runs good just has the issue starting

The way I changed my idle is plugged in my scanner and turning the adjust screw on the throttle body
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 10:22 AM
  #22  
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What brand IAC did you get? I had a problem with an aftermarket unit, that reacted too slowly, so, it would try and bring idle down, but, would adjust too far, and the engine would stall before the IAC could open up enough to maintain idle. Mopar IAC fixed that...

Did you clean the IAC bore in the throttle body when you replace it? Reset the PCM?

I would also be tempted to test the rest of your injectors... They all live in the same environment... so, if one failed, wouldn't be too much of a stretch to think the rest can't be far behind..... Granted, number 2 is out at the end of the fuel rail, so, probably collects the most junk from the fuel system..... (why Dodge did use a return-style fuel system, and a friggin' KNOCK SENSOR still puzzles me.)
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
What brand IAC did you get? I had a problem with an aftermarket unit, that reacted too slowly, so, it would try and bring idle down, but, would adjust too far, and the engine would stall before the IAC could open up enough to maintain idle. Mopar IAC fixed that...

Did you clean the IAC bore in the throttle body when you replace it? Reset the PCM?

I would also be tempted to test the rest of your injectors... They all live in the same environment... so, if one failed, wouldn't be too much of a stretch to think the rest can't be far behind..... Granted, number 2 is out at the end of the fuel rail, so, probably collects the most junk from the fuel system..... (why Dodge did use a return-style fuel system, and a friggin' KNOCK SENSOR still puzzles me.)
Its just a cheap lordco aftermarket, I still have original IAC so I'll put that back in and see !
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 02:09 PM
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Gotta reset the PCM after changing it.
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Gotta reset the PCM after changing it.
I do with my scanner ! As for injectors I would have caught another bad injector when I was going through them before !
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by j576
I do with my scanner ! As for injectors I would have caught another bad injector when I was going through them before !
Will your scanner clear all learned data? That is what you are going for. Depriving the PCM of power for a bit makes SURE all that data is gone.
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Will your scanner clear all learned data? That is what you are going for. Depriving the PCM of power for a bit makes SURE all that data is gone.
It clears all adaptive data I believe is the option
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 04:22 PM
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Hhhmmm.... Not sure if that will get base values for sensors or not...... Cheifly, IAC, and TPS.
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 05:32 PM
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How long can a PCM hold its breath?
 
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Old May 30, 2016 | 06:28 PM
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I'm concerned about the low voltage on the gauge. Check that with an actual voltmeter. Or did it correct itself when you tweaked the idle?
 
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