high amp Battery Drain
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 647
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From: Alabama
3> Done
Just to recap: We know the transmission powers up with a jumper in place of the relay contacts, so we're good on both the relay common and normally open. Now, we have to do at least the first of two things:
- Check for actual contact closure by measuring the voltage at the transmission;
- If it's not there, test that the relay coil drive circuit has a low enough impedance to deliver enough current to pump the coil.
- Optional: If battery voltage is there, remain seated in your current position and evacuate your bowels. Just to get it over with.
- One way or another, get your multimeter set to DCV with the positive multimeter lead connected to pin 1 of the eight pin connector on the transmission, which has an 18 gauge red wire exiting it, and ground the negative lead of the meter. If need be, stab a straight pin into the plug so it contacts the terminal, or just into the conductor itself, and probe to that. Start the engine, measure that voltage. Should be battery voltage, but it's bad news for us if it is. We'll burn that bridge when we get to it. But if it's not battery voltage:
- We gotta find a way to get probes to the relay coil terminals. Without a breakout adapter, I'd just tack solder a couple of short lengths of 22 gauge solid wire to pins 85 and 86 (open ended, not connected together!) right at the point where the terminal meets the relay body, and stuff the relay into place. Another option would be negative probe at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module, the box on the cowl on the passenger side) connector C2 pin 30, which is a pink 18 gauge wire, positive probe to generator field positive, which is the 18 gauge dark blue wire hanging out of the alternator's small plug, OR at the PCM connector C3 pin 25, also dark blue. Then, with the relay in place, start the engine and measure the voltage. If it's not within a couple tenths of a volt of battery voltage, we're not home but we can see the porch light from here.
got tp?
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
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From: Planet Earth
got it
thanks im going to presser wash under the truck anyway so ill hit that area good.
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 5,011
Likes: 6
From: Meeker, CO
I was... I oughta know better than to do things like this when I'm not high. Now that I am:
IF you should choose to tack some small wires onto the relay terminals, use a low watt soldering iron with a well dressed and tinned tip (that transfers heat efficiently), tin the wire with solder before you go to tack it down, and get the wire stuck just as quickly as possible. There are conductors inside the relay that are soldered to those terminals, and you don't want to reflow the smidgen of solder gluing them down.
Among other things, if we open the connection to the relay coil we invalidate our test, which would suck for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that it tempts nonsensical thoughts and actions.
If you want to get really crafty, measure the resistance of the relay coil and then drop by the nearest electronics shop to score the nearest value in a cheap (10% tolerance) half watt resistor. Then just crimp and/or solder that into some male terminals, stick it into the socket between pins 85 and 86, and measure the voltage across it with the engine running. If the nearest electronics shop isn't too far away, that'd be about the best way to go because then you don't have to worry about scrogging a relay. Though it might seem tempting to just jam the resistor leads into the relay socket, it's a bad idea in this case.
IF you should choose to tack some small wires onto the relay terminals, use a low watt soldering iron with a well dressed and tinned tip (that transfers heat efficiently), tin the wire with solder before you go to tack it down, and get the wire stuck just as quickly as possible. There are conductors inside the relay that are soldered to those terminals, and you don't want to reflow the smidgen of solder gluing them down.
Among other things, if we open the connection to the relay coil we invalidate our test, which would suck for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that it tempts nonsensical thoughts and actions.
If you want to get really crafty, measure the resistance of the relay coil and then drop by the nearest electronics shop to score the nearest value in a cheap (10% tolerance) half watt resistor. Then just crimp and/or solder that into some male terminals, stick it into the socket between pins 85 and 86, and measure the voltage across it with the engine running. If the nearest electronics shop isn't too far away, that'd be about the best way to go because then you don't have to worry about scrogging a relay. Though it might seem tempting to just jam the resistor leads into the relay socket, it's a bad idea in this case.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 647
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From: Alabama
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 5,011
Likes: 6
From: Meeker, CO
Why or not, what?
I agree with ya about the breakout widget. It's the easiest and safest alternative, for sure. The other suggestions are just alternatives if there's not one in the neighborhood at troubleshooting time. You know where that thinking comes from, eh?
I agree with ya about the breakout widget. It's the easiest and safest alternative, for sure. The other suggestions are just alternatives if there's not one in the neighborhood at troubleshooting time. You know where that thinking comes from, eh?
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
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From: Planet Earth
hmmm
I was... I oughta know better than to do things like this when I'm not high. Now that I am:
IF you should choose to tack some small wires onto the relay terminals, use a low watt soldering iron with a well dressed and tinned tip (that transfers heat efficiently), tin the wire with solder before you go to tack it down, and get the wire stuck just as quickly as possible. There are conductors inside the relay that are soldered to those terminals, and you don't want to reflow the smidgen of solder gluing them down.
Among other things, if we open the connection to the relay coil we invalidate our test, which would suck for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that it tempts nonsensical thoughts and actions.
If you want to get really crafty, measure the resistance of the relay coil and then drop by the nearest electronics shop to score the nearest value in a cheap (10% tolerance) half watt resistor. Then just crimp and/or solder that into some male terminals, stick it into the socket between pins 85 and 86, and measure the voltage across it with the engine running. If the nearest electronics shop isn't too far away, that'd be about the best way to go because then you don't have to worry about scrogging a relay. Though it might seem tempting to just jam the resistor leads into the relay socket, it's a bad idea in this case.
IF you should choose to tack some small wires onto the relay terminals, use a low watt soldering iron with a well dressed and tinned tip (that transfers heat efficiently), tin the wire with solder before you go to tack it down, and get the wire stuck just as quickly as possible. There are conductors inside the relay that are soldered to those terminals, and you don't want to reflow the smidgen of solder gluing them down.
Among other things, if we open the connection to the relay coil we invalidate our test, which would suck for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that it tempts nonsensical thoughts and actions.
If you want to get really crafty, measure the resistance of the relay coil and then drop by the nearest electronics shop to score the nearest value in a cheap (10% tolerance) half watt resistor. Then just crimp and/or solder that into some male terminals, stick it into the socket between pins 85 and 86, and measure the voltage across it with the engine running. If the nearest electronics shop isn't too far away, that'd be about the best way to go because then you don't have to worry about scrogging a relay. Though it might seem tempting to just jam the resistor leads into the relay socket, it's a bad idea in this case.
ok good deal im waiting until my wife smokes one to read and understand this hold on.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,
ohh ok now I understand she explained it to me.I have dozens of resistors being my hobby is cb and ham radio!! what is 10% color code I cant find my chart.your saying whatever my relay ohms is use that same number in a resistor?
so you saying to put the resistor in place of the relay? I have a few extra relays so I can just gut a relay and put the resistor in the place of whatever is between 85/86 internally?
going to be a few days before I can test at the tranny I cant do that cause of my neck surgery so I got my bro in law coming over to help. so lets take A break here. time for a muscle relaxer and pain killer or 3.
Last edited by bunker; May 11, 2016 at 08:08 PM.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 647
Likes: 3
From: Alabama
Why or not, what?
I agree with ya about the breakout widget. It's the easiest and safest alternative, for sure. The other suggestions are just alternatives if there's not one in the neighborhood at troubleshooting time. You know where that thinking comes from, eh?
I agree with ya about the breakout widget. It's the easiest and safest alternative, for sure. The other suggestions are just alternatives if there's not one in the neighborhood at troubleshooting time. You know where that thinking comes from, eh?
I don't remember now
