high amp Battery Drain
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10/4er
Thanks for the clarification!
"Splice", whichis a type of junction, means a point at which two or more conductors are connected together. But we don't need to rip into any yet because those that were in question have since been ruled out.
If you like wasting time, who'm I to stop you?
You don't need to do any of that.
So far we've established that the conductors connected to the relay contacts (the switching part) are just fine because the fkin jumper powered the transmission up just fine. We know that you're getting the coil power because you measured it when you probed pins 85 and 86. So there's no reason to think about the wiring along the connections we know are good.
We're at a hotel and about to head out to dinner, so I'll take a gander at the manual a little later and suggest a way forward.
"Splice", whichis a type of junction, means a point at which two or more conductors are connected together. But we don't need to rip into any yet because those that were in question have since been ruled out.
If you like wasting time, who'm I to stop you?
You don't need to do any of that.So far we've established that the conductors connected to the relay contacts (the switching part) are just fine because the fkin jumper powered the transmission up just fine. We know that you're getting the coil power because you measured it when you probed pins 85 and 86. So there's no reason to think about the wiring along the connections we know are good.
We're at a hotel and about to head out to dinner, so I'll take a gander at the manual a little later and suggest a way forward.
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good deal
ok not wanting to tear all that wire up for sure. thanks
Captain
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From: Alabama
What did I Miss?
"Splice", whichis a type of junction, means a point at which two or more conductors are connected together. But we don't need to rip into any yet because those that were in question have since been ruled out.
Why is it that we don't need to confirm the connections between the PCM and the Transmission Relay? When did we verify these connections ?
The relay is still not able to respond to the PCM command.
I don't see where 13.04 volts across open circuit 85 to 86 guarantees a connection to the appropriate PCM outputs.
Why is it that we don't need to confirm the connections between the PCM and the Transmission Relay? When did we verify these connections ?
The relay is still not able to respond to the PCM command.
I don't see where 13.04 volts across open circuit 85 to 86 guarantees a connection to the appropriate PCM outputs.
Last edited by Friar Tuck; May 10, 2016 at 01:59 AM. Reason: simplify question.
Captain
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Alabama
12v to Transmission
He gets 12 v to the transmission solenoid ***'y with the jumper installed in place of the relay, but not with the relay in. We're trying to find out where the connection problem is between the 2 PCM outputs to both ends of the relay coil.
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I think you need to go back and read the new thread the op made for the issue. It's my understanding that the issue is the relay terminals aren't making a connection to the relay all the time. But then again there are so many posts on this my head is starting to spin.
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head spinning
if im reading your post right it is yes, we have checked the female sockets where the relay goes, there tight and secure, all wires on the bottom the pdc are good
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From: Meeker, CO
I'll post again shortly -- just got home, gotta unload everything that's not an animal.
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From: Meeker, CO
Just to recap: We know the transmission powers up with a jumper in place of the relay contacts, so we're good on both the relay common and normally open. Now, we have to do at least the first of two things:
- Check for actual contact closure by measuring the voltage at the transmission;
- If it's not there, test that the relay coil drive circuit has a low enough impedance to deliver enough current to pump the coil.
- Optional: If battery voltage is there, remain seated in your current position and evacuate your bowels. Just to get it over with.
- One way or another, get your multimeter set to DCV with the positive multimeter lead connected to pin 1 of the eight pin connector on the transmission, which has an 18 gauge red wire exiting it, and ground the negative lead of the meter. If need be, stab a straight pin into the plug so it contacts the terminal, or just into the conductor itself, and probe to that. Start the engine, measure that voltage. Should be battery voltage, but it's bad news for us if it is. We'll burn that bridge when we get to it. But if it's not battery voltage:
- We gotta find a way to get probes to the relay coil terminals. Without a breakout adapter, I'd just tack solder a couple of short lengths of 22 gauge solid wire to pins 85 and 86 (open ended, not connected together!) right at the point where the terminal meets the relay body, and stuff the relay into place. Another option would be negative probe at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module, the box on the cowl on the passenger side) connector C2 pin 30, which is a pink 18 gauge wire, positive probe to generator field positive, which is the 18 gauge dark blue wire hanging out of the alternator's small plug, OR at the PCM connector C3 pin 25, also dark blue. Then, with the relay in place, start the engine and measure the voltage. If it's not within a couple tenths of a volt of battery voltage, we're not home but we can see the porch light from here.
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say what!
Just to recap: We know the transmission powers up with a jumper in place of the relay contacts, so we're good on both the relay common and normally open. Now, we have to do at least the first of two things:
- Check for actual contact closure by measuring the voltage at the transmission;
- If it's not there, test that the relay coil drive circuit has a low enough impedance to deliver enough current to pump the coil.
- Optional: If battery voltage is there, remain seated in your current position and evacuate your bowels. Just to get it over with.
- One way or another, get your multimeter set to DCV with the positive multimeter lead connected to pin 1 of the eight pin connector on the transmission, which has an 18 gauge red wire exiting it, and ground the negative lead of the meter. If need be, stab a straight pin into the plug so it contacts the terminal, or just into the conductor itself, and probe to that. Start the engine, measure that voltage. Should be battery voltage, but it's bad news for us if it is. We'll burn that bridge when we get to it. But if it's not battery voltage:
- We gotta find a way to get probes to the relay coil terminals. Without a breakout adapter, I'd just tack solder a couple of short lengths of 22 gauge solid wire to pins 85 and 86 (open ended, not connected together!) right at the point where the terminal meets the relay body, and stuff the relay into place. Another option would be negative probe at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module, the box on the cowl on the passenger side) connector C2 pin 30, which is a pink 18 gauge wire, positive probe to generator field positive, which is the 18 gauge dark blue wire hanging out of the alternator's small plug, OR at the PCM connector C3 pin 25, also dark blue. Then, with the relay in place, start the engine and measure the voltage. If it's not within a couple tenths of a volt of battery voltage, we're not home but we can see the porch light from here.
Last edited by bunker; May 10, 2016 at 09:46 PM.
