Yes, I do see 5 volts on the RD/LG wire at the connector on the back side of the clock spring. Now I have continuity through the clock spring on all wires, but the one for the third pin on the switch. Which plugs into the white wire on the steering wheel side of the clock spring. There are only two wires on the connector on the back of the clock spring that it can connect to and the is the RD/LG wire and the one next to it. So, if the 5 volt on the RD/LG is supposed to be on that wire, the clock spring must be bad. Can a person take the clock spring apart to look and see if there is anything broken in it?

I did replace the clock spring once before. It broken in several places and the horn would go off occasionally. Well, I found that and put it back together, shouldn't have connected the airbag wire. My wife drove to town and dropped my daughter off at school when she pulled back on the street the air bag went off. I'll never hear the end of that one.

HeyYou, just noticed where your from. My son lives in Fort Wayne, get out there about once a year.

Bob

 

I would be more tempted to just replace it, rather than try and fix it...... As you found out, a not-quite-right repair can be somewhat hazardous.....

I am not seeing a white wire in the diagrams...... Connector 203 (which I think is the one we are dealing with) Is a five pin connector, with only four wires on it. (cavity 2 is not used.) That correct?

 

That's correct (Connector 203) on cavity 2 not being used. On the steering wheel side of the clock spring the wire colors don't match with the wires on the backside of the clock spring. The replacement clock spring I bought may be an aftermarket one, that could be why the wire colors don't match. I'll probably take the clock spring apart this week end just to see if that wire is broken. No, won't repair it.

Bob

 

Wonder if it simply isn't the right one? Don't know if the pinout on those changed over the years.....

 

I bought it used off of ebay. It's worked for probably 10 years. Haven't found anything about the pin outs changing.

Bob

 

If you are going to go to the trouble of removing it, might just as well replace it.

 

I took the clock spring apart just for the heck of it. It was greasy and dirty, cleaned it up and tested for continuity and everything checked out. Put it back together and tested it again, no continuity. Found a break in that flat tape just at the soldered point of a connection. Tried to solder it, but the covering on the wires just peeled back.

I'll be buying one next payday.

Thanks everyone for the help.

 

Let's hope that fixes the problem. Although, we still have the puzzle of the Service manual being wrong about which wire does what.

 

I'm still puzzled...with this configuration, the LED won't light. That is, if the anode of the LED is connected to pin 1 of connector 203, and the feed (5v) is connected to pin 4, and pin 3 is connected to sensor ground. That's reverse polarity for the LED.
If everything is connected, and the LED still doesn't light, jumper pin 1 to pin 4. Bet the LED comes on. You did say there was 0 volts on pin 1 (PCM pin C11), right?


At any rate, let us know which wire color has the 5 volt reference and which is the signal wire back to the PCM. Also which pins they connect to on each end please. If the diagrams are wrong, we'd like to know.

 

Friar Tuck,

Yes, pin 1 (YL/RD) on C11 has 0 volts. C32 (RD/LG) has 5 volts. It will be a couple of weeks till payday and then I can get a clock spring. The wire that connects to C32 is broken and I don't get power to the switch right now.

Friar Tuck,

Are you referring to the pins on the switch? Or pins on the back of the clock spring. Wiring on the back of the clock spring is #1 YL/RD, #3 BK/LB and #4 RD/LG just like it's listed in the service manual. The BL/LB is the ground, the other two: #1 YL/RD is the ground and #4 RD/LG is 5 volts.

I'll let everyone know how this turns out and give an update when I get a new clock spring.