Hey guys,
I have looked around here for quite some time and have learned good info. Any feedback would be great on my problem.

I sprung a coolant leak from my water pump a couple weeks ago. I replaced the WP along with bypass hose, thermostat, tstat housing and upper/lower hoses. After burping the system, the temp fluctuates between 190-215. I got the tstat from napa. Is this normal for our trucks? I don't really like watching that needle creep up.

Also, I don't have good heat. I burped the crap out of it w no luck. If I turn the heat off for a while, while the truck is running, then turn the heat it, it works for a minute then back cold. Any ideas?

Thank you for your time.

 

19.5 years and 183k miles with my truck and I can tell you a story about every time my temp gauge wasn't rock steady. Sounds to me like you still have Air in the system. It can be a real fight to get all the air out of these as high as the heater core sits in the loop. Use a good steep hill and try again to burp the system. What temp T stat you running? Did you have good heat before? Partially clogged core?

 

I got a 195 degree from napa ($5). Contemplated going 180 but decided against it. I flushed the heater core and it didn't help. I had steady heat before but it was never really hot. I am in the process of flushing the entire system. I could only get the driver block drain off though. The passenger was in too tight of a spot. How much do you think is left in the block since I only could get 1 of the drains open?

 

if your radiator cap is old might try replacing it and see what happens.

 

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I have a new radiator cap.

 

Are you the original owner of this truck? If not, no telling what maintenance has been performed before you. If it were my truck, I would drain the block fully and also change out the freeze plugs that run along both sides of the block, in addition to removing the drain screws on each side of the block. I've found that neglected cooling systems gain a collection of muck around the base of the cylinders which is easier to access and remove by pulling the block freeze plugs. If you plan on keeping the truck, I'd replace the plugs with brass 1-5/8" deep cup plugs.

Lastly, did you have good heat before you did all of the cooling system work and was the truck running at a consistent temp before the water pump leaks?

 

No I'm not the OE. I will look into the freeze plugs. If theyre not difficult to replace, I'll tackle those while I have the coolant out.
The heat was "ok" before the work and the temp fluctuates <5 degrees.

 

If you drill a hole (1/8 or so) in flat body of the t stat it will let the air out when you fill it. You have to remove the motor mount to get to the center freeze plug on the side of the motor.

 

Oh geez. Removing motor mounts isn't in my arsenal. I may have to leave those plugs in until they cause me an issue.

Do you think a dealership stat may fix my issue?

 

Dealership stat won't do anything different. Just be more expensive.

You still have air trapped in the system. Yes, it is a major pain to get it all out. A STEEP hill is one way, manually filling is another. (via the heater hoses) You *might* be able to install a flush port in the drivers side heater hose, right there by the heater core.... (highest point) leave the cap a bit loose, and run the engine. Should purge the air out pretty quickly.....