You should be able to test the secondary (high voltage) side of the coil by going from the center lead (that would normally go to the disty) and one of the other two leads (if you get the wrong one, it will show an open circuit). It should be the one labeled #1 in the above link.

 

I would wash it off good and look for cracks in it too. your test numbers could be showing good, but the spark could be grounding out on your motor where it bolts up. with that many miles, that coil body is probably getting on the brittle side.

 

Indeed, on the high-voltage side, you could have a hairline crack that could short under that high-voltage condition.

 

I left my truck at work until Monday, but I know the coil body is split open on the seams. Has been for years.

Is it possible for the truck to still run if I get "no circuit" when testing the top pole to both of the lower pins???

 

Are you getting any spark?

 

I put a Standard Motor Products coil on our truck from Rock Auto. Part # for a 1997 is UF97 $28.

If your wires are bad, there could be arcing in the cap. I would put a new cap and rotor on with your new plug wires. New NGK plugs also. With the miles on your truck I would replace the coil also. I do agree that you need to test and find what is actually wrong. Your plug wires shouldn't fail every other year.

 

Yeah, it still runs. I've been driving it to and from work every day, 45 miles each way. It doesn't idle well though. CEL just came on again yesterday.

 

Would anyone hesitate to buy this one?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-OEM...xYTJpY&vxp=mtr

 

that doesn't look like the one you need (no tensioner pully should be attached to it for a 1500 5.9L to my knowledge) . I paid around $80 for mine '98 5.9 at the stealership.

 

Yeah weird pic.

I bought an Accel coil.