No photo available but it was not a "gel" it was a hard, clear epoxy coating. The pc board was sealed and is in two pieces, connected by a flexible connection strip. If you were not careful, it would be real easy to actually crack the pc boards trying to access them.

Just go for the external route. There seems to two different thoughts about the CEL. Some say, with the external kit, that their light comes on and some say not. The kits for sale have good write-ups and a resistor to prevent the CEL issue but are a tad more expensive than necessary. You can try just the external regulator first, then see if you need to add the resistor to prevent the CEL. It seems that the external regulators are available at almost any auto parts store. Ultimately, going to be a lot easier than trying to open the PCM.

 

Sorry for the necrobump, but I need help. I just put in an external voltage regulator, but I get a no spark situation while trying to start., because the green and blue wires were cut from the PCM. When I wire them back they way they were, it will start, then I can take those wires, put them on my new voltage regulator, and it will stay running, and charge. W

I have a field resistor thing ordered, which is supposed to shut off the CEL, but what do I do with the wires in the meantime? I hope this isnt some other issue...

A little background on this though... PCM went out (*so I thought, anyway), and I wasnt getting a charge. I ordered a new PCM, but sometimes, my charge will stop and the CEL comes on. Then, I have to open the hood, and jiggle the wiring harness, and it comes back. As you can imagine, its a real PITA, so I figured I'd just bypass it. But, I dont get a spark when starting, when the green and blue are cut from the PCM. It seems like the ignition coil wont charge up while starting....

Note: I am using the existing ignition hot wire from the alternator. I dont see why I couldnt use that, even though the videos say to wire up an ignition hot from the fusebox.

Would it be bad to hook up the blue from the PCM to the blue on the new VR? I dont want to risk anything like that.


Oh, its 1990 B-250 with a 318.

 

Think I would be tempted to just leave both hooked up. If the PCM doesn't control the alternator on its own, then something is definitely awry. I can't really think of anything it would damage by running both systems, especially if one of them simply doesn't work properly. That would also leave the the gauge working, and the light off, and the PCM won't whine about the charging circuits. Hopefully.

 

Did u ever get the external regulator working I’m working on trying to do the same thing to my 2007 Dodge Charger hemi an it don’t seem to be working

 

That's a whole different beast

 

Ya no **** fanaticbeast I figured it out man I tried everything new alternator new battery even tried to bypass the pcm with a external regulator an it can’t be done is what I was told but I still tried an It was something so dam stupid I’ve worked on many cars an I’ve always thought that the alternator an starter are on different wires but not on my dodge u put the power feed to the starter an the alternator wire goes down to the starter an they bridge off one another man I would have never thought that but I was going to bed an thought of it an that’s was the only way I haven’t tried to hook it up an low an behold it worked like who else but mopar so if anyone is reading this trying to bypass the pcm on a 5.7l hemi Dodge Charger 2007 it cant be done at less I couldn’t do it an a dodge technician told me u can’t bypass the internal regulator

This is my toy just got done with putting a new engine in it got over 8000 in it