Hey guys,

I am experiencing a really dangerous brake problem, and I could really use some help!

My big question is, how do you all feel about rebuilt calipers? As I suspect mine may be the cause of my problem.

Recently I had a caliper with a slide that had seized, I got it working again but it wasnt pretty. I decided to get "new" calipers, wheel cyliners, shoes, and a brake hardware kit.. Front brake pads were sanded down, and rotors/drums were turned.

Before I did my brakes, they were solid! Now, my brake pedal goes straight to the floor and I barely get any resistance. I have bled my brakes 3 different times and went through two big bottles of brake fluid, and I seriously seriously doubt my problem is an air bubble.. I also tried readjusting the drums, with no real difference in pedal travel.

I got everything from Summit Racing, and I would be really surprised if they sent me bad parts.. But Im kinda thinking that's what may have happened. I would really appreciate some help here guys, my instinct is to get all new stuff and try again..

 

Start the engine, and pump the brakes. Do they pump up?

Did you have help bleeding? It is REALLY difficult to get all the air out of the system by yourself. Having a spare foot can make all the difference.

 

Getting the air out of the proportioning valve can be a problem. Correct brake bleeding is another.

 

They do pump up, but only slightly. If I dont continuously pump, it doesnt seem to get any better. Either way, I have no problem pushing my brakes to the floor. I had help the first time I bled the brakes.. Then I realized something was REALLY messed up, and tried it a couple times on my own.

Ive always had success using a one way valve bleeder (idk if thats its actual name), then I wedge an object between the seat and pedal, so I can close the lines.

If a seal or something similar (not familiar with internal components) goes in a caliper, could it cause the symptoms im experiencing?

 

If a seal blew out, you would see fluid on the ground.

Probably still air in the lines..... Do the brakes pump up with the engine OFF? Got a spare foot around that can help you out for a few?

I like to have my helper pump up the brakes, and hold pressure on the pedal, while I crack open the bleeder. That shocks the air loose, and is much more effective at getting it all out of the system.

I have also been known to just put my finger over the end of the bleeder valve, while my helper pumps the brakes slowly. You can feel the air coming out... and it's a lot faster than opening/closing the bleeder each time. I'll do this first, to get the bulk of the air out of the system, then do the pump and crack routine a couple times, until I am happy with the pedal.

Also, I have found that on NEW calipers/wheel cylinders, the threads for the bleeders are squeaky clean, and the brake system can easily suck air around them. On older systems, the threads have had a chance to pack full of crud/rust, and so are sealed pretty good. So, on new components, the 'one man bleeder valves' don't always work as advertised. (although, teflon tape can solve that too, not to mention make them FAR easier to open in five years, when you want to flush the system again. )

 

Thanks for the tips
Keeping pressure on the pedal while opening the lines sounds like something I need to try out!

Brakes do pump up with the engine off. Then as soon as I start the engine, brakes go right to the floor.

I put teflon on all my connections before assembly/bleeding, absolutely love that stuff!! I dont think air is getting back into the lines, but maybe some is trapped in there still. With my one man bleeder, there isnt a single air bubble I can see in the clear lines... Its been a really frustrating day to say the least.

 

Have a friend help you, and do the pump and shock thing. I suspect that will solve your problems.

 

Just wanted to say thanks HeyYou!

Tried your method at first, and it didnt work... Only because I figured out one of the calipers had a bleeder pointing down, instead of up. Didnt realize it was an issue until I read it online, and saw u
it for myself. Replaced wheel cylinders (bleeder snapped) and calipers with advanced auto-parts, and bled the lines with your suggested advice.. Worked like a charm, greatly appreciate it!!

Now have real solid brakes again! Super happy about that! One thing I noticed about the drums though, was with the rear jacked up and trans in drive, the left rear wheel stopped before the right... And sometimes required a second pump of the brakes before the right rear tire would stop, any idea what this is cause by?

I was thinking, maybe because of the trac lok rear end I have, a bubble in the line, or unequally adjusted drums.. Any ideas? Im really hoping its not a bubble, cause if so I may need a power bleed... Both drums were manually adjusted to 3/4s of a turn as well, Thanks!!

 

Might be air, might just need to readjust the rears. Think I would start with the adjustment. It's easier.

When I adjust rears, I get the whole rear end off the ground, spin the tire, and adjust the shoes till I can hear them starting to rub. Of course, ten thousand other things want to make noise under there as well, so, make sure you are listening to the RIGHT noise.

Other option would be to adjust them TOO tight, then use two tools to back them off to where you like 'em. First tool for the star wheel, second tool is to push the self-adjuster out of the way, so that you can turn the star wheel backwards.

 

Ill give that a shot! But knowing my luck, theres still a couple bubbles in that right rear line.. Lol

If adjustment doesn't work and I need to bleed the rears, can I get away with just bleeding the rears? Might sound lazy, but I feel I finally have the fronts right, and id rather not mess with them.

Brakes can be a real PITA