About 6 months ago I started having a problem developing where the truck would pull hard to the right when stepping on the brakes. I took it in to the shop and asked the mechanic to replace the front caliper(s) assuming one or the other of them was frozen. According to the mechanic, neither of the calipers was frozen, he replaced the front passenger caliper under warranty anyway (since it had been replaced earlier last year by him anyway) and re-bled the front calipers. Unfortunately this didn't help, and he went off on a tangent about how the rear brakes were locking up under hard braking and no weight (which had never been a problem before and wasn't really unexpected).

The system is a unique (bastardized) one. The truck shipped with 4 wheel ABS, but the previous owner removed that entire ABS system. The system is just a simple proportioning valve off the brake booster. I really doubt the issue is here, it hasn't been a problem for many years.

Now, the driver's side caliper is frozen, hard, like smoke pouring off it in the first few miles frozen. My suspicion is that the (never replaced) brake hoses (flex lines) are kinked or clogged or corroded, and it's been preventing the driver's caliper from braking (hence the pull to the right), and now after time after time of braking, it's finally locked up enough pressure to stay frozen (possibly pushing corrosion into the caliper, ugh).

Thoughts?

 

Replace the rubber lines. When they get old and brake work is done, they usually cause issues. Usually, when a caliper piston is pushed back in, it reverses The flow of the brake fluid through the line, and when they are old, they crack and split on the inside, and cause issues. I know this as this was the problem on my Chevy, replaces the calipers, still no luck, then replaced the lines and It worked great.

 

This is good advice. Brake lines are not forever, and by your symptoms, I am pretty sure this is indeed the issue. A simple test would be to jack up the front, pull the tire, pump the brake a couple times, see if you can turn the tire. Then, crack open the bleeder, and try again. Spin easy now? Replace the line. (do both. They live in the exact same environment, so, they both break down at pretty much the same rate.)

 

Both = Caliper + Brake Hose?

 

Nah, just both brake hoses.

 

I've ordered some new brake hoses, they should be here tomorrow, and some DOT3 brake fluid. I'll have my wife to help man the pedals (I'll have to press gang her into it, so wish me luck). Is there anything I should know, tips or tricks, before I to do this.

A few things to note. I do not intend to replace the frozen caliper at this time, it will hopefully loosen with proper bleeding. I also do not have my full set of tools available to me, so I don't have a set of channel locks to try and remove and push the pistons back. I'm a bit nervous about doing this in such an uncontrolled environment (on a paved driveway) and potentially getting in over my head (bleeding a closed system is not the same thing as removing components and effectively opening the system).

 

All you should have to remove Is the front tires. No need to remove the caliper. Just unbolt the brake like and bolt it back in as quick as possible.

When you put the new limes on, just snug up the banjo bolt. They have the copper washers on them and usually seal up easy. As long as it's not leaking from the bolt your good.

As for your stick caliper, I don't that that's the problem unless you know for sure. Like covered about it's a lot of times the old brake lines. They rot out on the inside from the old acidic fluid, and then when you push the positions back in for a brake job, they come undone and block the flow in the line, causing it to stick.

When you get finished with one side, open the bleeder and let gravity get a lot of the air out for you. It will just drip and should be almost out once your done on the other side.

When you are finished installing the lines, have your wife pump the brakes 3 times, not too slow, but not rapid pace either. Just a firm pump. On the fourth tell her to hold the pedal down, open your bleeder, and let the pressure release, and immediately tighten the bleeder. Don't let her release the pedal with the bleeders still open, or they will draw the air back in.

Go for a drive and if the brake feels spongey, bleed them again. Just do lots of frequent stops, like In your neighborhood.

Simple easy repair. You won't be in over your head at all.

 

Spray all the bleeders with chems before you try and play with them.

Make sure you have a 'parts run' vehicle available..... Bleeders on wheel cylinders like to break.

Have all the bleeder valves broke loose, before you open up the system. (and thus, render it unsafe to drive.)

With old, dirty bleeders, for the initial bleed, you can crack it open, stick your finger over it, and have your helper (yeah, good luck with that.... ) just pump the pedal until you are getting good fluid flow. (won't be necessary on the rears, unless you are forced to replace wheel cylinders, due to broken bleeders.) Doesn't work as well on new, clean stuff, air can work its way around the threads. Still works, just, not quite as effective.

Hit the brake line connections that you are going to need to work with with chems as well. Be generous. No such thing as 'too much'.

Be careful when unthreading the the hard lines from the soft lines, make sure JUST the flare nut is turning, not the brake line as well. Replacing brakes lines is a drag.

 

Heyyou hit dot on bleeders, especially since you are in NH.
Other than what we've put, make sure you don't run that dang MAster cylinder dry, or you be there for awhile.

 

When you say hit the rears, I just recently had the whole system bled (which didn't help the problem, brakes always pulled to the right when stopping, per my current theory due to massive corrosion in the driver's side brake hose, the same wheel which has since locked up). Do you think it's safe for me to not touch the rears and bleed only the fronts, or do I need to bleed all four since I'm opening up the system?