Cabin fever getting to ya'?

 

Dipped my toe in the water today. Got stuck as quick as I thought but might. As soon as I got the rotors off I realized that I didn't have anything big enough to get that axle nut off. Looks like a 1 3/4 , which doesn't come in 1/2" drive, which is the biggest I have, only comes in 3/4" . Just gonna get a adapter. Never needed 3/4 for anything before. Looks like I'm off to spend another $30 for the socket and adapter first thing in the morning. I did soak the axle nut , and hub bolts with penetrating oil. The knuckle that holds it all on looks tough to get off. Both ujoints were shot, barely holding together. I shot I quick video of the action but am struggling to upload at the moment.

 

You are likely going to want the brakes together to try and break that axle nut loose....

 

Yeah... It looks like that axle nut is a 1 11/16 not a 1 3/4. It also appears as if I will need to remove the tie rod to get the diff out...Is that correct ? Should I get a puller to remove the hubs ? I was planning on using the tip mentioned in this thread about using hammer against a socket on the hub bolts. Im also wondering if I should take the axles (once removed) to a shop to have them remove and install the ujoints ? It looks like a PIA to get them apart. Off to the store for the 1 11/16 socket .

 

So spending $25 on the socket and adapter gave me a moments hope, but was dissipated quickly once I snapped my 1/2 breaker bar. I had soaked the axle nut in penetrating oil ( no pun ) the night before, and several more times today. That 1 11/16 castle nut is really on there ! First I put a big screwdriver into the brake rotor tines to keep the axle from turning, then I ended up putting the handle for my floor jack on the end on the 1/2 " breaker bar, stood on it, and pop ! the pin snapped ! A neighbor noticed me struggling and came over with a whole 3/4" set , but even his breaker bar wouldnt get this thing to move ! So Back to the store for a new breaker bar tomorrow. I spent the rest of the time today attacking the shocks. Got the driver side done, but again got stuck with the lower mounting bolt on the passenger side. Of course didnt remember to support the axle when I did the driver side, so I fought with getting it lined up right when installing the new one.. At least I supported it for the passenger side,til that bolt stopped my progress. I have to work tomorrow evening so, I will be more limited on time, but am hoping to take another shot at these axle hub nuts (after I get a new breaker bar) I might try to use a small propane torch to heat up that castle nut, takes forever but does work occasionally. At the very least I will get the passenger shock in, and also remove the diff cover, and cad housing. Still not sure about the tie rod, it looks like it will need to be disconnected at least on one end or the other to get the carrier out. Anyone ?

 

Might make your life easier popping the drivers side tie rod loose. Give you more room to work in any event.

Do you have access to air tools? My half-inch impact wrench is pretty effective at breaking bolts... I mean, breaking bolts LOOSE.....

If you don't, then you might have to hammer on your breaker bar. Keep in mind, that can be a dangerous proposition...... Other than that, the long pipe on the bar is your next best bet. Might want to consider a 3/4 inch breaker bar......

 

No air tools. Thought about buying a set this morning, but it would take several extension cords to reach across one parking lot to the next , to reach where she's laid up. I did just snap 2 breaker bars, one 1/2 and 1 3/4 drive , both bought new this morning. Are these nuts reverse threaded ? Gonna try more new breaker bars ( I'm $70 in just in breaker bars!) With some heat from the propane torch. If that fails I suppose I could break out my torch that is for glassblowing, it gets very hot but sure doesn't handle the way a nice OXY acetylene setup does. Also really struggling with the passenger side shock . Had to hammer the **** out of the driver side one to get it into that bottom mount. The passenger side is tricky, seems like I need to hammer at it from under truck towards the wheel well. Anyone know a trick here ?

 

Small victories, paid the price and will end up paying more , but .... I got the axle nuts both off ! Had to buy a new 3/4" t handle breaker bar, this one had the lifetime warranty ! Put my 5 foot forged steel floor jack handle on the end of the t bar and jumped on it til they broke. The problem came after that. I was following a tip I saw (not this thread) on here mentioning that to get the hub to come loose just put a socket on the end of the hub bolts and turn the steering wheel until the socket hits the backing, basically using the steering to push the bolts and hub forward. Didint really work.. and I noticed lots of leaking accompanied by a sucking like vacuum sound as I turned the steering wheel. There was no leak (besides the axle seal) before this. So now I gotta figure out where its leaking from, hopefully wont need to replace the power steering pump. I did manage to get the driver side hub out by using a sledge hammer, hitting the bolts with a extension with a socket on the end. Was a chore but worked. Wish I hadnt F'd the steering though. Hopefully its just a easy line. Not sure if the OE hub was shot, was a bit noisy, but not to bad, and still pretty smooth. The joints were absolutely done. If the weather allows me to work on it tomorrow the plan will be to remove the passenger hub and axle, remove the cad, and maybe pound that shock into the lower bracket. Then its on to the next big task, the carrier removal. wish me luck fellas

 

The lower bolts on the shocks go thru a steel collar in the shock bushing.... and they like to corrode, and become one.... Makes it fun to get 'em out. Big Hammer is the answer.

If your truck has a heavy duty/towing package of any description, you will likely have a power steering cooler under the radiator support as well. Check there for leakage too. They like to rust out.

 

Thanks for helping me through this heyYou. I appreciate all of your input. I have the new driver side shock already installed, and the passenger side has been removed,so I am familiar with how they go out, its getting the new ones in thats tough ! The steel collar in the shock bushing fits between a steel bracket that is mounted to the axle assembly. The plates on this bracket are just a bit too close to just slide the shock bottom(the steel collar) in , it needs to be hammered and pryed in. At least thats how I got the driver side in. My truck does have a tow package, not sure about the power steering cooler. I have replaced the radiator and didnt notice one then, It is definitely leaking from higher up , near the PS pump ...hopefully one of the nearby lines. left a hefty puddle of PS fluid front and center, just a few inches in front of the diff. Was dripping from above me while I was working the hub out.