Hp Gains
Hi Guys, I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab 4x4 with a 5.9 magnum, that's I've been currently working on. It's now on ramps, as i'm swapping the transmission for a rebuilt 46re because the old one was having problems.
Anyway, back to business. I'm rebuilding the engine completely, got my kit from EngingTech. I'm doing a stock rebuild, and having the heads shaved to make sure they're true. I'm replacing the stock's intake plenum plate with an aluminium one. Other than that, I have a k&n cold air intake, stainless magnaflow muffler, and superchips tuner to take care of any death flash and improve torque management. I've also gutted the cat because it was badly plugged, and there's no emissions in this part of Canada. My question is, how much hp do you think this combo will make? Is there something anyone can suggest to do to help these mods? I'm not looking for a crazy amount of hp, just something better than stock to improve towing. I generally drive like an old man, but something I like to put my foot down
BTW, this is my first post as you can see, but I've used this site quite a bit to help me along. I love my truck, and really appreciate everyone words of wisdom and personal experiences.
Anyway, back to business. I'm rebuilding the engine completely, got my kit from EngingTech. I'm doing a stock rebuild, and having the heads shaved to make sure they're true. I'm replacing the stock's intake plenum plate with an aluminium one. Other than that, I have a k&n cold air intake, stainless magnaflow muffler, and superchips tuner to take care of any death flash and improve torque management. I've also gutted the cat because it was badly plugged, and there's no emissions in this part of Canada. My question is, how much hp do you think this combo will make? Is there something anyone can suggest to do to help these mods? I'm not looking for a crazy amount of hp, just something better than stock to improve towing. I generally drive like an old man, but something I like to put my foot down
BTW, this is my first post as you can see, but I've used this site quite a bit to help me along. I love my truck, and really appreciate everyone words of wisdom and personal experiences.
Stock, it put out around 245 or so.
For the heads, having them shaved will only exacerbate an existing problem. The decks are too thin. I generally advise folks to NOT spend any money on them, and simply replace them with better castings. They are available from Clearwater, or Odessa cylinder head service on EBay, for under 600 for a pair. Make sure to get the NEW castings, they have thicker decks, and are much less prone to cracking as the stockers. Spend a bit more for the EQ Monster Magnums... (around 1300 for a pair) and you can pick up a few ponies, as they flow MUCH better than stock.
The cold air intake really doesn't do you any good. If you already have it, might as well keep it, if you haven't spent the money yet, don't. Get a good, free-flowing filter, and it will work just as well. The kegger intake is most certainly NOT a high-rpm intake, power drops off like stone above about 4K RPM, which is where the better flowing (marginally) air intake would actually help. With the stock manifold, the CAI will net you nothing.
Harland-Sharp 1.7 ratio roller rockers are good for a nice power bump, and are a direct bolt on.
The tuner is also good. I am not sure how Superchips compares to a Hemifever, or flyin' Ryan tune though.... Those two guys are the standard 'go-to' guys for tunes for these trucks.
Shorty headers, and a good free-flowing exhaust is also another nice bump. The Shorty headers actually have a better torque curve for low end grunt than either the stock manifolds, or long-tubes.
If you do the EQ heads, you will likely need a custom tune to get the most out of them.
Could also replace the stock kegger, and go with the Hughes Air-Gap, or an M1 two-barrel intake. You sacrifice a bit of low-end power, but, you get a MUCH wider power band...... and with the other improvements, you won't even notice the loss.
A good double-roller timing chain and gear set is also a good idea. Less prone to stretching, and more accurate than the stock morse-style chain. If you have a bunch of miles on your truck, JUST changing the timing set makes a significant difference.
For the heads, having them shaved will only exacerbate an existing problem. The decks are too thin. I generally advise folks to NOT spend any money on them, and simply replace them with better castings. They are available from Clearwater, or Odessa cylinder head service on EBay, for under 600 for a pair. Make sure to get the NEW castings, they have thicker decks, and are much less prone to cracking as the stockers. Spend a bit more for the EQ Monster Magnums... (around 1300 for a pair) and you can pick up a few ponies, as they flow MUCH better than stock.
The cold air intake really doesn't do you any good. If you already have it, might as well keep it, if you haven't spent the money yet, don't. Get a good, free-flowing filter, and it will work just as well. The kegger intake is most certainly NOT a high-rpm intake, power drops off like stone above about 4K RPM, which is where the better flowing (marginally) air intake would actually help. With the stock manifold, the CAI will net you nothing.
Harland-Sharp 1.7 ratio roller rockers are good for a nice power bump, and are a direct bolt on.
The tuner is also good. I am not sure how Superchips compares to a Hemifever, or flyin' Ryan tune though.... Those two guys are the standard 'go-to' guys for tunes for these trucks.
Shorty headers, and a good free-flowing exhaust is also another nice bump. The Shorty headers actually have a better torque curve for low end grunt than either the stock manifolds, or long-tubes.
If you do the EQ heads, you will likely need a custom tune to get the most out of them.
Could also replace the stock kegger, and go with the Hughes Air-Gap, or an M1 two-barrel intake. You sacrifice a bit of low-end power, but, you get a MUCH wider power band...... and with the other improvements, you won't even notice the loss.
A good double-roller timing chain and gear set is also a good idea. Less prone to stretching, and more accurate than the stock morse-style chain. If you have a bunch of miles on your truck, JUST changing the timing set makes a significant difference.
Thanks for the good information, I knew the stock heads and intake weren't great. Do you think the stock intake will be okay with an upgraded aluminium bottom plate? I'm not looking for a lot of hp, so I can't really justify spending on the money on a new intake. As for the heads, I'll take your advice and not have them surfaced unless I absolutely have to. Again, I don't really want to spend the money on new ones, do you think they would be okay if they pass a pressure test or are they forever a ticking time bomb?
I'm also going to take your advice on the timing chain, I hadn't thought of that but that sounds like a reasonable upgrade.
I'm also going to take your advice on the timing chain, I hadn't thought of that but that sounds like a reasonable upgrade.
Have a look at the pics in This Post. (thanks WK,
) See the cracks between the valve seats? That's how it starts. Those get worse, and eventually you get serious compression leakage thru there. I have seen them get so bad they actually burned away some of the exhaust valve. (at which point, the cylinder stopped contributing to power output.)
Here's a pair for 560.
Another pair for 549.
Fix it once, fix it right, don't worry about it again.
) See the cracks between the valve seats? That's how it starts. Those get worse, and eventually you get serious compression leakage thru there. I have seen them get so bad they actually burned away some of the exhaust valve. (at which point, the cylinder stopped contributing to power output.) Here's a pair for 560.
Another pair for 549.
Fix it once, fix it right, don't worry about it again.







