hey guys, I am new to this site; don't even know if I am in the right place to post a problem that I am hoping to find help in resolving. I have 2000 dodge ram 1500. It sets a lot. I put a new battery in it about a year ago, and when I went out to start the truck after it had set for a month, the battery was dead. Assuming it was a bad battery, I bought a new one; drove it about 75 miles and let the truck set for a month. Dead battery again. I charged the battery all day on a Sat. and drove it to the garage. The mechanic checked the battery; the battery and the alternator checked out good. The truck set for two weeks and the battery is dead again. Can anyone offer solutions?

 

Moved to the correct section.

 

You have a draw on the system. Sometime, the underhood light, or, the glovebox light, will stay on, for whatever reason, and that will run your battery dead in just a day or so. Need to find out where the draw is, or, disconnect the battery if the truck is just going to sit for an extended period of time.

Welcome to DF!

 

If it sits outside, get a solar trickle charger, plug it into the lower power port (it's always on). Get it from harbor freight.

If it sits inside, get a plug-in trickle charger.

 

I would suggest looking up "Eric The Car Guy" to check for a short circuit. This would involve finding the electrical draw with a multimeter and pulling fuses to find which circuit has the problem.

 

Aftermarket stereo?

 

I have same problem in mine at the moment, but havent had a chance to work on it. Below is straight from the 2001 Dodge Ram service manual (section 8F-16, Battery System)


(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off.

Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (timeout). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.

(2) Determine that the underhoodlamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.

(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable.

(4) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post.
Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperagescale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securelyclamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during anypart of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.

(5) After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replaceeach fuse or circuit breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then in the Junction Block (JB),one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information in this service manual for complete PDC and JB fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that isthe source of the high-amperage IOD. Ifthe amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing
each fuse and circuit breaker,disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, refer to Charging System for the proper charging system diagnosis and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, ifnecessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process toidentify and correct all sources of excessiveIOD.
It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the lowamperage IOD.

CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

(6) Observe the multi-meterreading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 5. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether awiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.

Good luck!

 

FYI - I tracked down my draw to the IOD circuit. Then found the culprit to be the Sony headunit I installed years ago. No change pulling the radio fuse, but apparently my unit malfunctioned to the point the CD player motor continuously spun, even with the unit showing as 'OFF'. Somehow the clock tied into the motor.
Pulled the radio out, amp draw immediately went to normal. No more dead battery!