One bolt into a clamp at its base, (pull the bolt, remove the clamp) one electrical connector, and, of course, the plug/coil wires. Then it just pulls straight up. With the cap off, should be enough room to R&R without removing anything else.

Might be best to rotate the engine so number 1 cylinder is in firing position, and line up all the marks. It will make reinstalling the replacement easier. (I also tend to note on the dist. housing how far back the rotor turns as I pull the dist out. Makes it easier to set it back in place correctly.)

 

I've replaced those now n now it's at the shop. He's running out of ideas. He has spark. Replaced the crank sensor. Says there's compression. Has distributor aligned. I'm thinking I need to try someone else. Any more ideas of what could be wrong.

 

Need three things for the engine to run. Fuel, spark, and air. Now, you have spark, and I would certainly hope you have air..... so, that leaves fuel. Got good fuel pressure? Is the PCM firing the injectors? Any codes.

 

The distributor could be installed incorrectly. Either off a tooth or you had #1 TDC on the exhaust stroke.

The fuel sync ( timing of the fuel injectors) could be off. There is a notch in the dist housing that lines up with the rotor when the engine is at TDC compression stroke on the #1 cylinder. That's good enough to start the engine to adjust it while connected to a computer.

With things that worn and making contact, maybe the timing chain jumped at tooth.