And how often do you need to replace the pump? I have replaced motors more often than oil pumps....

 

[QUOTE=Jimythefan;3353119]$2600 is a pretty good price for a repaint if that's for the whole truck.


Yea, but it's from one of those crap chain companies that really do budget paint jobs. Sure it's base coat clear coat. But they wont take any of the molding off or anything. If you don't take it off yourself their gonna tape it off.

I'll probably do the balancer & new seal route and see if that stops it, I think it's the right way to go rather than experimenting with different seals. Their a pain in the butt to get in there with the timing cover on. And I have no plans in the immediate future of taking it off again. I would be at a loss if it still leaked after a new balancer and seal.

 

ok so, last sunday I put some of that motor honey stop leak in thinking it couldn't hurt, but not really expecting any change. I drove my truck all week and it continued to leak through the crankshaft seal. I did notice that where the oil was collecting under the truck looked like it had metal in it. By the time Thursday rolled around it looked like the truck was no longer leaking. I found a brand new balancer at a dealership and snapped it up on Friday just in case I end up replacing it (it could be the last brand new one on the planet). So my plan was (is) to pressure wash it keep an eye on the leak (or lack there of now) do some research on different seals and replace balancer and seal next weekend or just the seal if I find a different one that may work better with my repaired current balancer. Thing is...now it seems to have stopped leaking, I have know idea why and I can't figure out why I was seeing what looked like metal in the oil that collected underneath. Oil in the pan is clean. I'm not ready to call it fixed, I feel like it could start leaking again or worse...something else is wrong.

 

Probably from the new oil pump gears breaking in.

If it starts leaking again, since you have the new balancer, I would just go with a stock type seal, and the new balancer. Grease the seal liberally before installation.

 

I didn't use new oil pump gears. I used a micrometer and feeler gauge to measure them and they were within tolerances (as far as what the book told me) so I reused the old ones. The timing cover orifice that holds them was like 2 or 3 thousandths of an inch out of tolerance (warn) but there was no guarantee a used one would be any better and I couldn't find a new one so I reused that as well. I didn't know there was a break in where metal may be seen. I have 12 days to return the balancer if I don't install it, so I will just keep an eye on it until then and if I do have to use the new balancer I will use a stock seal.

 

Ah. Hhmmm..... Well, keep an eye on things, including oil pressure..... see what happens. Maybe the system is just washing all debris out, now that you actually have real oil pressure.

 

New to this site but I've tore my truck a part after reading others that posted on this site. My 1995 Dodge 2500 4x4 V10 165k started with a lifter tick and pressure drop off the gauge at idle. So I tore it down and replaced the oil pump. Water pump oil pressure sensor. Cleaned pick up tube. And FYI you don't need to pull motor to take the pan off. But you do need to drop the pan enough to remove the two bolts holding the pick up tube. Then with a little wiggle the pan does come out. Yes it's tight. After putting it back together it still ticked!!!!!!! And pressure still dropped at idle! So I dropped some the oil and added sea foam. Believe me or not the tick went away after a short drive!!!!!!!!! But the oil pressure still drops off the gauge at idle. Next I'm going to replace the oil pressure relief spring. And feed back on why the pressure drops off at idle? And no the lifters don't tick at any speed. Thanks for everything you guys posted to read and help me!

 

Verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. You may have just gotten a bad sensor new out of the box.