5.9 getting upgrades.
#11
08-07-2017, 03:17 PM
#12
08-07-2017, 05:03 PM
#13
08-09-2017, 11:55 PM
#14
08-09-2017, 11:57 PM
Are you the guy that wanted to turn a 4021 lb. truck into a "mustang hunter"? Ok, glossing over the facts that the car you intend to hunt weighs approximately 1000 lb. less than your truck and has a fairly decent coefficient of drag while your truck has the aerodynamics of a barn. . . a high HP truck could be a lot of fun.
Unless you intend to strip the engine down, and do a ground up build specifically for nitrous, you are going to blow your engine up sooner or later if you try to run any amount of nitrous that would give you a decent performance boost. If you absolutely must run nitrous, then build the engine for it from the ground up. If you can't do that, send the nitrous back -there's another way to make the same amount of horsepower without sacrificing engine life.
You've got some good mods so far. I would make the following recommendations in order of greatest gains to least:
*Get a custom grind camshaft (which will give you a huge performance increase by itself).
*Have your heads ported and polished and a 5-angle valve job (can be good for 40 HP or more, depending on the state of tune of the rest of the engine).
*Increase your compression ratio with taller pistons. Make sure you use ARP head studs instead of head bolts if your CR is over 10:1 or your HP is over 400.
*Reduce your quench to .035" -good for only about 1.5% of total HP, but it is "mechanical octane". For every .010" reduction below .055" it simulates 1 point of octane, in other words, you can run higher compression ratio than you normally could on a certain octane, or you can run lower octane than you normally could with a certain compression ratio.
*Get current generation Bosch disk-type 4-hole fuel injectors with a higher flow rate. They atomize all the fuel (droplets between 30 and 75 microns) instead of squirting a stream of fuel. In addition to supporting a higher fuel rate, it will result in faster, better combustion that will burn more of the fuel air charge.
*Run a true-dual exhaust with an x-pipe crossover, and mufflers with "straight-through" construction design such as those made by Corsa, Borla, or Magnaflow. Dual 2.5" pipes are good for up to 463 HP, dual 2.75" is good for 566, dual 3" is good for 679.
http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how...pipe-diameter/
*Get a performance intake manifold.
*Get an overkill ignition system such as an MSD. I can't remember exactly how much spark energy is generated by the stock system, but I want to say it's 38 millijoules per spark. The MSD Digital 6A i put in my truck has 135 per spark, and it sparks 6 times about 1 millisecond apart instead of a single spark. This allows you to step your spark plug gap from .040" up to .060". All other things being equal, it will burn more of the fuel air charge which of course means more power extracted per unit of fuel.
*Switch to an electric fan. Good for 10-15 HP and the engine will stay cooler than with the mechanical fan.
*Ceramic coat the inside of your headers. Eastwood makes a really nifty ceramic internal exhaust coating in an aerosol can with a 2 foot long flexible nozzle for like $30. It will allow less heat to be absorbed by the headers, which means lower under hood temperatures and higher initial exhaust gas velocity -both of which add very slightly to power.
There are millions of other little things but I'm getting sleepy. I hope these help or at least are interesting. Good luck with whatever you decide!
Unless you intend to strip the engine down, and do a ground up build specifically for nitrous, you are going to blow your engine up sooner or later if you try to run any amount of nitrous that would give you a decent performance boost. If you absolutely must run nitrous, then build the engine for it from the ground up. If you can't do that, send the nitrous back -there's another way to make the same amount of horsepower without sacrificing engine life.
You've got some good mods so far. I would make the following recommendations in order of greatest gains to least:
*Get a custom grind camshaft (which will give you a huge performance increase by itself).
*Have your heads ported and polished and a 5-angle valve job (can be good for 40 HP or more, depending on the state of tune of the rest of the engine).
*Increase your compression ratio with taller pistons. Make sure you use ARP head studs instead of head bolts if your CR is over 10:1 or your HP is over 400.
*Reduce your quench to .035" -good for only about 1.5% of total HP, but it is "mechanical octane". For every .010" reduction below .055" it simulates 1 point of octane, in other words, you can run higher compression ratio than you normally could on a certain octane, or you can run lower octane than you normally could with a certain compression ratio.
*Get current generation Bosch disk-type 4-hole fuel injectors with a higher flow rate. They atomize all the fuel (droplets between 30 and 75 microns) instead of squirting a stream of fuel. In addition to supporting a higher fuel rate, it will result in faster, better combustion that will burn more of the fuel air charge.
*Run a true-dual exhaust with an x-pipe crossover, and mufflers with "straight-through" construction design such as those made by Corsa, Borla, or Magnaflow. Dual 2.5" pipes are good for up to 463 HP, dual 2.75" is good for 566, dual 3" is good for 679.
http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how...pipe-diameter/
*Get a performance intake manifold.
*Get an overkill ignition system such as an MSD. I can't remember exactly how much spark energy is generated by the stock system, but I want to say it's 38 millijoules per spark. The MSD Digital 6A i put in my truck has 135 per spark, and it sparks 6 times about 1 millisecond apart instead of a single spark. This allows you to step your spark plug gap from .040" up to .060". All other things being equal, it will burn more of the fuel air charge which of course means more power extracted per unit of fuel.
*Switch to an electric fan. Good for 10-15 HP and the engine will stay cooler than with the mechanical fan.
*Ceramic coat the inside of your headers. Eastwood makes a really nifty ceramic internal exhaust coating in an aerosol can with a 2 foot long flexible nozzle for like $30. It will allow less heat to be absorbed by the headers, which means lower under hood temperatures and higher initial exhaust gas velocity -both of which add very slightly to power.
There are millions of other little things but I'm getting sleepy. I hope these help or at least are interesting. Good luck with whatever you decide!
#16
08-27-2017, 05:09 AM