Nope. Thats at least partially BS. The cam gear IS the sprocket they are talking about, and there is zero need to change the cam, if there isn't anything wrong with it.

To swap the chain/gears, tear it down so you can SEE them, then, turn the motor to line up the dots on cam and crank gear. Remove the old ones, install the new ones. Might have to fiddle with the crank a little bit to get everything to line up nice. (as there won't be any slop in the chain now.....)

 

Copy. Sounds way more correct. I took the timing cover off and inspected the oil pump. The oil pump and pump cover appears to be within specs. There is serious pitting on the outside of the pump cover but not enough that would lead me to believe it was compromised. Should I throw the new parts on and hope that is what was causing the pressure problem. There is a bad sludge build up. I put approximately 50 miles on an oil change before doing this and the oil looks like its as dark as a couple thousand mile oil. So I'll be exchanging this stuff and doing a seafood rinse. Let me know what you guys think. I'm ready to have this truck up and running.

 

I have all the new innards installed but I can't get the timing cover to line up with the crankshaft. Is there some sort of trick to getting the inner oil pump rotor to line up so that the cover slides on.

 

There should be a woodruff key in there you need to line up on crank, that engages a slot on the oil pump drive gear. May need to get that lined up first, and then push the cover back.

 

So I got the timing cover back on. There's a woodruff key for the crankshaft sprocket but the oil pump just slides on, albeit extremely tightly. I ran into a problem. I accidentally bent the oil pan gasket because the bottom of the timing cover caught the front edge of it. Lesson anyone performing this job. It would make it about 5 times easier if you just drop the oil pan. I just don't have enough room in my garage for the truck and my engine lift. So I had to redneck the oil pan gasket with gasket sealer and hope that hold til I can take the truck to a mechanic to have the gasket replaced. At one point when I was really poor I used gasket sealer as my water pump and oil pan gasket for several thousand miles. Also I was reading the Chilton's manual and it said that at curb idle oil pressure is at 8 psi minimum. Why is 10-12 psi setting off the low oil pressure light? I'm also going to be running 10w-40 oil while doing my seafoam rinse to help the oil pressure a little bit.

 

The gauge isn't always incredibly accurate...... the switch for the lite may not be either......

 

You don't need an engine lift to drop the V10 oil pan. Just get it up on some jack stands high enough to get under it, remove the pan bolts, drop the pan down enough to disconnect the oil pick-up, and the pan will wiggle on out. I had mine out in less than an hour start to finish.

 

So I know this is an old thread but I would be very interested to know if the new parts fixed your low oil pressure issues, or if you found something else that solved it. Thanks.

 

5 year old thread. You would be better of telling us what you have, and what the problem is.

 

I was reading and was VERY confused ......I don't think he ever had a low pressure problem. 10-12 at hot idle seems great and later he even says he found a spec of 8....so I have no idea why he undertook all the work. Am I missing something???